1.8T E-Turbo

The VESC is ok if you're cool with experimenting. It's real-time data is unbeatable; but the control leaves a bit to be desired (at least at high electrical rpm, long motor cables and sensorless operation). But I'm sure things will only improve on that front. The Castle motor I bought is a 2028, 800kV unit.
 
hello! some update on this project, yesterday is my vesc arrived.
I have 44 pieces a123 26650 lifepo4 cells, my plan is to have 11S4P battery.
One big problem with the cells, nickel strips cant handle that big amps, and copper is not really easy to spot weld.
I read on a forum to put some solder under the copper plates and with the heat from spot welder its just solders perfect :), and it is going not much heat into the cells.

My prototype on this is a 4s1P 30Ah lifepo4 battery to start my car, the 0.2mm nickel strips burnt through in 1 sec :D,
now with the spotwelded solder it holds 10 starts an it is not even get hot.293976789_743264913396048_7558560895041398648_n.jpg293717159_4896985480406757_7700267189341768797_n.jpg
 
So the solder is between the copper and the aluminum (I think that's aluminum on the cells)?
 
Hello! yes the solder is between the cell and the copper. ( i Dont know if its aluminium)

My whole battery is now assembled, made some test and tried to setup the vesc.
It went good, till i tried some settings i saw what Benjamin made in his videos, sensorless motors with HFI to get the position on 0 RPM as well.
It went not bad already got torque and speed instantly without cogging, i made always just small steps, theeen it went to crazy selfdestructive mode :)
I'm not sure why it got into somehow selfexcited the motor just jumped back and fourth amps through the roof, no reaction to throttle.
Of course the whole ESC just bursted into flames in 0.5sec, the mosfets are just GONE! the PCB burnt through, i disconnected the battery in a sec but it was already too late.
Soo long story short--->> the esc is dead, BUT the battery is reaaaally strong, the motor is ok.
I just leave the HFI settings for the next time.293829215_850083805979761_645027977059356276_n.jpg294655332_3253925988181697_1245306746744408194_n.jpg294670985_1203359310412728_7665633647133410712_n.jpg294258660_3184037415147785_3946355234993558039_n.jpg294618372_776385970179413_1541597079884496004_n.jpg
 
I really liked the vesc tool, i’m not sure now if it was my fault or the flipsky 75200 is just a shitty copy.
i didnt put any crazy numbers just went 0.5V down on the HFI then the firework came 🙂
I just found out that the 75100,75200 design is stolen aswell from a guy.
Now im thinking about to get the original Vesc,
 
Wow - the battery stuff looks great. I'm glad it's working out for you. I have to say, I have an original 75/300 VESC, and it's really not good. It doesn't even perform the same day to day with the same settings. I wouldn't recommend another one. I've been using in in my most recent videos and it's still pretty inconsistent. I really don't think it's ready to be out in the market. They did say the new beta firmware is better, but I can't seem to find a download of it and I'm not comfortable running "beta" firmware in a $600 ESC. I would really strongly urge you to consider a different ESC. The primary advantage of VESC is FOC - and FOC is 5% slower, top-speed, than block commutation. I literally just uploaded a video on that today - and you can see the VESC not behaving well (again):


Personally, I like the MGM and APD stuff (even though I had some issues with APD, which I think they're addressing, the APD was actually the easiest to implement).

What is your battery configuration?
 
hello! i didnt know earlier of APD but the F Series would be perfect for me for almost half the price, but i ordered yesterday a vesc 75/300 and it's already on the way :D i will just try not to make fireworks again :)

The battery is now 11S4P, it should make continous 280A, in 10sec pulse 480A.
295675719_367651728824628_132528712165926054_n.jpg293954412_457082935970977_4687547994353463483_n.jpg
 
That looks great. What did the voltage drop down to under load? And yes, I'm thinking of ordering the APD F series myself - WAY cheaper than the other APD and should still support (barely) the P2 unit at full tilt. Plus it has conformal coating - that the more expensive one lacked. Definitely let me know if you get the VESC working and stable. I haven't been able to.
 
It was never under load, just the motor turned, then fireworks:D but i'm sure there was voltage drop:DD my shaft for the turbo is not finished.
I just finished today the battery pack with the bms, with the bms connected this firework would never happened, i can set the bms for max Amp what i want, it could just disconnect before the amps gone go wild. I think that is still a good idea for the next vesc :)

I think the F series needs just a really good heatsink both sides and it will hold that 200-300A easy.
I dissasembled the flipsky 75200 of course, it is already dead, can't be worse, i wanted to see, the PCB and the mosfets are strong, but the APD F series i think it is stronger.

If it's is not working good with vesc i will get an APD too :)
I should just have waited one more day for your answer, i did not know about APD :(
 
The APD could likely be the best $$/performance ESC available. The mosfets on the APD are good for 600 amps combined and 80 volts... so their ratings are probably very conservative, esp. with heatsinks.
 
Hello! This is not a bad idea but i think the nickel strips with just a 0.2mm thickness between the cell and the copper will still have voltage drop.
If this soldering how i made is holding, there is just a thin layer of solder between which should not have voltage drop.

I'm still not finished with the turbo, just the batterypack and BMS.

I'm not sure how i should make the shaft, im thinking of reusing the original shaft from turbine.
How did you guys made the shaft?
WB Projects showed the shaft in his videos but i'm still not sure.
Alex how did you made your shaft? how is it holding together?

I made now a quick draw ( not really nice and exact, just to show).
What if i make the Emotor shaft outside like in gearboxes (See Photo) and the Turbineshaft inside the same with almost no clearance, maybe heat up the turbine shaft and cool down the emotor shaft.

The back housing of the compressor will have the bearing inside, so the shaft cannot slide out.
shaft.png
 
Do you have a lathe ? I just receive my new motor and I will probably make a video of the shaft!
If you can use the original turbine shaft, go for it! But I run into issues trying to use it. So I've made an other one.. but I will say it's hard to do on the lathe for the precision of this size of shaft.
 
I have a flier 400Amp ESC that im expecting to set on fire lol. I bought this before Alex started the Eturbo videos.

Im still intending on buying a VESC 75/300.. They are much cheaper than MGM ESC's and have more features...
Sure VOC might not be great but who cares run it on BLDC mode.

I wouldn't buy a APD Cos Alex blew up 2 of those. The F series i dont believe for one second will beable to handle large current for a long time..


On a completely different Topic of connecting the motor and compressor shaft.
So far no one (Seriously) that has tried to connect the motor and the turbos shaft hard mounted, that is without some kind of coupler has lasted the test of time.
This was true on the phantom E-turbo builds and WB-Project recent failure. So my suggestion would not to do something which has already been proven not to work and instead add some means to allow for miss alignment.

WB machined a shaft and slid it over the motors shaft and glued it together. This seems unlikely to ever work as long as the motor shaft comes with a Flat spot on it.
Alex's Sledgehammer has a coupler (in my opinion a very smart one)
 
WB projects- No i don't have, but a friend of mine has a company with all the cnc machines.

​

Mkngstffawesome: I had a Flipsky vesc which burned through, so i think it's possible with all esc-s :) I saw Alex's post about the APD and i already ordered a VESC 75/300. FOC is not easy but i think with Field Weakening it could be better than bldc.

The APD F series is just the board without anything that's why is cheap i think, but with a good heat sink i think it could do some amps :)

Okay i think i missed some post's about that, i saw WB's turbo that something happened, but i missed Alex's coupler as well :)
I don't want to build something which is not working :)
 
so ... to get rid of coupling / bearing / oiling (and many other electrical) problems time to approach it all differently:

a rotrex unit with built in 9.5:1 "gearing" and seperate special oiling loop like e.g.
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(@AlexLTDLX with his sledgehammer engine would need a bigger unit)

with the right belt drive pulley ... and

a golf cart battery / controller / motor combo

looks like a viable solution!

standard 48V components , standard controllers (much cheaper than the crazy RC stuff), robust slower turning torquey motors ... (tons of aftermarket ... far east and domestic)

and no direct coupling acrobatics!

a smart mounting plate to accomodate the rotrex unit, a small belt tensioner, a motor and 2 pulleys (with the right ratios to hit the rpm band) should make it still compact.

(now looking into a good used cheap golf cart to strip, LOL)

brain pain
 
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My new motor have a flat spot on it, so I will try some new things on the shaft.. I wish I have no flat on it ..
 
My motor shaft is flattened as well,
I think the best would be if the emotor had long enough shaft to put the compwheel at it :)
 
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