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Where does this go ? im 99% sure that goes to the rocker cover / crank case. And that should be on the inlet side of your turbo after the MAF.. having it after the turbo will be pressurizing your crank case!

i dont use set screw couplers.. they by design force the couplers/shaft to the opposite side of the coupler and thus out of center and balance.. i much preferer the camping ones which ensures center alignment. Clamping ones also dont require a flat spot... i have a you tube video on how bad...

sorry i forgot to answer your question.. that is a new machined shaft... the wheel says it's 6.48mm so i guess i should make the shaft the same 6.48... for the bearings it says 9mm ID so should the shaft me 8.99 or something ?

I can in theory buy a SC kit for my car with one of those... the thing is they are frightfully expensive. I have seen some of their SC's for sale second hand. If you got one I feel it's simpler and cheaper to just just get a plate made up and run it normally than adding a electric motor to...

i need to do a wiring diagram for it all.

yeah i know what you mean about the couplers which is why i didn't want to do it this way.. Every method has some downfall. I think about the problems with belts or gears and they have their problems also... If this doesn't work i figure i can just get my own couplers made up something like...

i theory if you change the pulses in the code and you could get the count from the ignition coils firing but you'd need a voltage divider for that since they run at 12 volts...

TD05 housing TP 4070CM Direct drive setup Designed to be machined from 20mm aluminum In the first pic you can see a section that is removable to to allow access to the coupler Bearings are 9x17x5mm Ceramic (not sown) There is an allowance for 1mm of play in and out.. The idea is i'll...

ok the rpm sensing is most likely to be problematic and may need a lot of work to actually work... i wasn't able to test this.. It might work though

The max value is 32,767 70k assumes you were trying to use a 70k resistor is this correct ? You could... 1) Use resistors lower than or = to 32k 2) Divide both the Rhigh and RLow by 10 so 70k would become 7,000 What parts of the code are you intending on using ?

Right i think i know what's going on.. Post one has a link to download the code. (you need to click on the link and download all of the code) Post 2 only contains the instruction part of the code for reference here. I can not post all of the code here like i did in second post because you have...

what part of it are you trying to implement ?

If / when this doesn't work very well.. buy some lock nuts and then dont tighten them up much to allow the two faces of the couplers to slide across one another.. Thus allowing for some small miss alignment.

lol the flipping and flopping will never end ... so after buying that turbo they have come back wanting way more money to post it to me.. so that has been cancelled ... hum....

https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AoNHzN I have given up waiting for my friend to make the Eturbo that i posted at the beginning. I have now bought the above complete turbo. The idea is to do something similar to Rattus (see below) In theory all i would need to get machined would be two...

So this assumes perfect alignment ? Which could be interesting(Or not).

i would expect all DIY e-turbos on this site to be more power than the torqueamp

could you be more specific on how you coupled the motors shaft to the SC's shaft.

I can't see why you couldn't remove the motor and attach it to something else But at the same time it might not help you.. if you want more "Power" you'll need err more "Power" than the torque amp system can probably provide.

Yes.. he doesn't know what happened. He has to take his engine apart to find out.