Want to build 500Hp electric turbo, people with experience please chime in

I found some videos on Youtube with guys pushing 20-25KW of power with Castle/TP motors. Asked what this guy (25.5KW, looks like TP Power) runs:

2 more guys running 20KW+ on Castle 2028 1700 (can post if you like to see)
This is something I'm a little unsure of. The AMPs the ESC records don't seem to corelate with what's coming out of the battery. I noticed that on one of Alex's videos the cable to ESC was flowing 265A yet the ESC recorded 320A+. Maybe @AlexLTDLX can clarify ?
 
This is something I'm a little unsure of. The AMPs the ESC records don't seem to corelate with what's coming out of the battery. I noticed that on one of Alex's videos the cable to ESC was flowing 265A yet the ESC recorded 320A+. Maybe @AlexLTDLX can clarify ?
You're comparing apples to oranges here, you can't compare directly the type of loads an RC car would pull to those of a supercharger, also heat is energy and the differences you are seeing at the ESC vs anywhere else is an element of efficiency, work is being done inside the ESC as well as the motor. 100% efficiency is where you would expect to see the energy in equal to the energy out and we know neither the ESC or motor is 100% efficient. Without having to research and get "sciencey" with equations, I suspect the power capacitors contribute play a role in this process also.

You will need to focus on the power required to drive a given compressor to the demand level you have set. The Borg Warner turbo matchbot I believe it is called can give you a range estimate of the power level you'll need by entering your system specs and having them calculated and plotted on the various compressor maps they offer.
 
@AlexLTDLX did you try to turn charger on while in hands? I don't remember for sure. I am interested, does it really cause considerable axial force on the compressor
 
Guys forgot one problem to solve... How do you recharge 30-50V batteries in the car?
Get a 48v alternator from a hybrid car and figure out the control wiring, or purchase an conventional style 48 volt alternator and regulate up or down to the voltage and current rate you need. Both can be found on ebay for around $3-600. Or you can buy an external charger in the right voltage range for far less money and plug the car in while parked.



 
Sounds too complicated :eek:
I see that Lipo chargers can also be powered by 6-30V DC input. Question is, can you simultaneously have batteries plugged into ESC (and dumping power) and plugged into charger? Like a normal car battery. And like any other electronics like laptops, smartphones etc.
 
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If a charger is not made for this purpose I would not recommend this. Chargers in your phone are quite advanced, while normal charger will follow a predetermined charger profile based on some parameters like 1/10 of charging current, a certain voltage etc.
When the battery is being loaded while charged, this might confuse the charger.
There are some chargers, like for boats / RVs etc, that are better suited for this. I might have found a decent charger but need to look into this first, and probably. test a bit as well, before I can recommend this one.
 
I believe you're both over thinking this. The focus should be on a functional electric supercharger, as for an onboard charging system, a simple on/off or open/closed circuit activated when the supercharger is in use can be deployed to disengage charging during that brief period, something as simple as a relay that is activated when voltage is applied to the motor. The smart charging systems of modern cars are designed mainly for efficiency in my observation.
There is talk of better battery life but they don't seem to be lasting any longer. Managing the charge load from the old continuous charging system to duty cycle charging does a better service to fuel efficiency however small.

In regards to this experimental subject a high capacity power supply makes the most sense in anything intended to be a daily driver so that recharging frequency is greatly reduced, or minimal relative to boost demand. You can't drive around town in boost for stretches much more than about 6-7 seconds and even that could be long enough to reach "Go to jail" speeds if caught.

Battery power with about 3 minutes of boost time would likely last me an entire day the way I drive, although my focus is on variable boost characteristic of a traditional turbo with an initial activation point of about 70% throttle input.

I left out the battery maintenance controller (BMS) for charging, but that would be your smart charger, this isn't complicated as long as you know your equipment specifications and requirements.
 
I use a 12-48v on board charger made for RV vehicles that I bought off Aliexpress. My Alternator is a stock OEM 100A 12v. The charger is designed to charge while the battery is being discharged and this is how I'm running it. So far no issues at all with that. I have noticed that it pulls a few more amps while the batteries discharge but there still is sufficient Amps to run the coils etc. The charger has two settings 35A and 70A (@12v). I use the 35A setting and have found this is plenty for street use when paired with my 20Ah LTO batteries. Highest draw I have seen so far is 260A @ 47v. I figure the extra 10A@50v from the charger is adding to that. For a track setup I'd go to a larger (12v) alternator and swap to the 70A setting.
 
I use a 12-48v on board charger made for RV vehicles that I bought off Aliexpress. My Alternator is a stock OEM 100A 12v. The charger is designed to charge while the battery is being discharged and this is how I'm running it. So far no issues at all with that. I have noticed that it pulls a few more amps while the batteries discharge but there still is sufficient Amps to run the coils etc. The charger has two settings 35A and 70A (@12v). I use the 35A setting and have found this is plenty for street use when paired with my 20Ah LTO batteries. Highest draw I have seen so far is 260A @ 47v. I figure the extra 10A@50v from the charger is adding to that. For a track setup I'd go to a larger (12v) alternator and swap to the 70A setting.
Is it some RV speciffic? Can you share the link maybe?
 
That looks like a great charger, does it allow you to adjust the charging voltage for LTO cells?

I’m going with a Victron Orion charger myself. Similar concept, and you can modify the end voltage using the app. Victron is very well known for their electronics for off grid and recreational vehicle solutions. This particular charger also is not even that expensive.

 
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That looks like a great charger, does it allow you to adjust the charging voltage for LTO cells?

I’m going with a Victron Orion charger myself. Similar concept, and you can modify the end voltage using the app. Victron is very well known for their electronics for off grid and recreational vehicle solutions. This particular charger also is not even that expensive.

There are 8 different charging programs, none of which were designed for LTOs. But seeing as I couldn't find any alternatives at the time I just bought it and xd my fingers. It could benefit from more aggressive charging but otherwise it works great.
 
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