Setup for GM LLT 3.6L V6 questions

Pl
Well you need about 18.5hp 13.8kw for a 3.6L @ 6 psi

At 22.2v that is 621 amps.. and that's assuming no voltage drop... 22v is completely impractical

CLICK HERE

There are other options other than Lifepo4 it's just that lipos are far from the safest option...
Please share sir as i am open to new units. LTO seems a bit hard to find. If there are other options please point in that direction. I can build and fabricate almost anything. Just want to make right choice the first time.
 
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Guys ... this site is becoming a "crowd engineering" site ... LOVE it.

Thanks @All ... especially @AlexLTDLX and @MkngStffAwesome !
(no offense to everybody else, pretty sure there is some awesome stuff going on which has not yet found its way over the keyboard ...)

Currently rethinking a lot of things: targeted Voltage (even 48V is on the low side!), picked Motor (The TP5860 with 1000KV) is not going to produce 13.8 kW for a reasonable period of time AND still be durable/reliable).

Assuming my P-2 is a Vortech Si trim knockoff and looking at the compressor map attached (found here: https://vortechsuperchargers.com/pages/compressor-maps ) I would say for our 3.6 with 3000-6000 engine rpm (~270CFM uncorrected - ~540CFM uncorrected) I would say not too shabby for a 1.4 pressure ratio ( 6psi boost) target.
We would only need ~28k impeller rpms for that!
Interesting: 20k rpms upwards slight (2-3 psi) boost is being built accross the 3.6 working range.
(And the surge line is nicely left of our working area...!)

AND: if we later want to compensate for boost pressure drop (when ICs come into play) we only need room to go up to 31is krpms with the impeller :)

Backtracking to the emotor: Not the best choice, there might be better motors out there! (TP5860 with 1000KV and 30V on the motor to turn 30k rpms it would pull GOBS of amps! With 750KV it would require 40V ... still gobs of amps will be flowing...)
Now that is interesting. So 60V- plus maybe a better option or different motor? Lord I was about pull the trigger last night on the motor it still in my cart.

So P2 is good so guess go ahead and grab that.

Next the APD NV-Pro 16s do we the 300amp 400 max unit or would the NV-Pro 24s work at 200amp 300 max as found that unit for about 400 bux more affordable. Or do you guys have a different ESC in mind.
 
Now that is interesting. So 60V- plus maybe a better option or different motor? Lord I was about pull the trigger last night on the motor it still in my cart.

So P2 is good so guess go ahead and grab that.

Next the APD NV-Pro 16s do we the 300amp 400 max unit or would the NV-Pro 24s work at 200amp 300 max as found that unit for about 400 bux more affordable. Or do you guys have a different ESC in mind.
the 16s is rated for a lower voltage of about 60V (58?) (where our motors pull more current).

the 24s is rated for a higher voltage of about 90V.

so ... theoretically if a motor needs to deliver 13kW it would pull
~271 A at 48V (ouch!) or
~220 A at 58V (the max voltage of the 16s APD) or
~144 A at 90V

That really is theoretical, because load (initial and inertia, pressure resistance, friction) will cause even higher amps to get pulled at a given voltage!

now ... everybody needs to figure out where his batteries will be voltage wise, then chose a KV motor which is not maxed out at 13kW and 35k rpm.
Choice of the ESC is easiest part then...

higher Voltage has the benefit of lower Current draw (and more benefits in consequence) for the same power to deliver BUT has higher requirements on the insulation of the motor windings! So it still is a balancing act!
 
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The APD esc I'm using is a 16s unit, but it's actual max voltage is 70 volts, just fyi - which is what I'm charging my new packs to. When calculating motor speed, I'd try to keep it to 75% of max - because you'll never hit max motor speed under load. For example, right now we've seen peaks of about 28,000 rpm at 55 or so volts. This is with a 750 kV motor - at 55 volts, it should be running 41,000 rpm; but it's not under load. I think with some fine tuning, you could hit ~ 30,000 rpm at that voltage (playing with motor timing), thus my 75% suggestion.
 
Personally i'd go for the 20s (84v) 300amps . thats in part because the current boost controller for charging only goes to 90V.

Really people need to investigate the practicality's of running a motor at that power ratings for a long period of time and in a hot engine bay... I think you'll either need a much bigger motor that can dissipate the heat but this will probably need to be geared to the compressor wheel OR two motors and two ESC's also probably also needing to be geared..

FYI my build is geared and takes two motors, though it dont think i need the second one.
 
ok ... here a (higher voltage!) setup with 2 different motor options which looks promising:
The Torqstar3 for a geared supercharger (with step up)
The LMT 30100 for a directdrive (1:1) setup.

powerwise it comes close ... very close


(LMT30100 plus APD UHV 20s ESC , ran at 60+ Volt would be awesome!)
 
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looks expensive lol :)
it relatively is ...
- the LMT 30100 is ~550 USD
- the APD UHV 20s is ~1700 USD

- the APD HV pro 16s is ~1100 USD

you could get away with the HV pro 16s. The UHV 20s has more wiggle room.

I think I cannot pass on the APD HV pro 16s anyway.
And the LMT30100 is just 200 more than the 5870 ... so: it can be done without dishing out MUCH more.
The UHV ESC is a nice to have "insurance" with safety margin (especially when bumping up battery voltage).


(not sure if I like the MGM ESCs ... max 15s all! and too much exposure and dimension)
 
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what about the HV_Pro 20S 84V 300A 1099usd ?
 
So it looks like a solid set would the:

Blower: PCE157.1002 P2

Motor: LMT 30100 or (TP 5870)

ESC: ADP NV-Pro 20s/85V

Is there a source state side for the LMT30100?

Now for Battery, Charge (step-up) and BMS

I am at least a 48-60V battery setup. I can't go to larger of battery set as it will be mounted it the trunk of my car. This car is my show car for my high-end speaker company and will have a very high-end sound system setup in the trunk also.

So just from the battery post charging from the Alternator is a most. And 10-15sec 100% throttle runs every now and then is all that require. So a setup for 12V to 48-60V to charge and some sort BMS. So what would you guys think a smallish but adequate battery set would be? All us some displacement guys (3.6L V6) is about 6 psi of boost.
 
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What you think about 2 A123 40V packs wired in parallel or even in series to hit that 80V range.

A123 Battery Specs:
Normal: 2.3ah 3.3V
Max: 3.5ah 4.2V

For the motor I am leaning to the TP5870 as I can't find a source the LMT 30100 state side.
 
What you think about 2 A123 40V packs wired in parallel or even in series to hit that 80V range.

A123 Battery Specs:
Normal: 2.3ah 3.3V
Max: 3.5ah 4.2V

For the motor I am leaning to the TP5870 as I can't find a source the LMT 30100 state side.
you mean this ad?

while the ANR 26650 is a good cell and on @MkngStffAwesome testing list, above ad is mentioning in the description USED, 90% capacity and a mix of two cell types (-A) and (m1B).
I personally am hesitant ...

Motor wise ... ok I understand LMT (Lehner Motoren Technik) is located in Germany and mgm who sells their motors as well is in Czek Republic...
If you need US presence I would talk to https://neumotors.com/motors/ ... according to @AlexLTDLX they are THE experts in regards to brushless motors (and they can get you the RIGHT motor!).
To build 6psi boost for our engine the motor needs to deliver ~14kW and turn the impeller with 25-30k rpm ... and that is for more than just peak!

15kW is about the "PEAK" power of the TP5860 ...for very short periods.
The TP5870 is not going to be much better...
For my personal taste I would look for a motor which is NOT maxed out at 15kW and has enough momentum to produce those rpms in the center of its power band.
 
what about the HV_Pro 20S 84V 300A 1099usd ?
Yes ... of course good!
But then the system really needs to run at 75V+ to make sure the pulled amps do not exceed the specs of that ESC model ... would be a shame to get the 20s and then run lower voltage through it risking overdraw damage.
 
you mean this ad?

while the ANR 26650 is a good cell and on @MkngStffAwesome testing list, above ad is mentioning in the description USED, 90% capacity and a mix of two cell types (-A) and (m1B).
I personally am hesitant ...

Motor wise ... ok I understand LMT (Lehner Motoren Technik) is located in Germany and mgm who sells their motors as well is in Czek Republic...
If you need US presence I would talk to https://neumotors.com/motors/ ... according to @AlexLTDLX they are THE experts in regards to brushless motors (and they can get you the RIGHT motor!).
To build 6psi boost for our engine the motor needs to deliver ~14kW and turn the impeller with 25-30k rpm ... and that is for more than just peak!

15kW is about the "PEAK" power of the TP5860 ...for very short periods.
The TP5870 is not going to be much better...
For my personal taste I would look for a motor which is NOT maxed out at 15kW and has enough momentum to produce those rpms in the center of its power band.
Yep that was one of the cells i was looking at.
 
So it looks like a solid set would the:

Blower: PCE157.1002 P2

Motor: LMT 30100 or (TP 5870)

ESC: ADP NV-Pro 20s/85V

Is there a source state side for the LMT30100?

Now for Battery, Charge (step-up) and BMS

I am at least a 48-60V battery setup. I can't go to larger of battery set as it will be mounted it the trunk of my car. This car is my show car for my high-end speaker company and will have a very high-end sound system setup in the trunk also.

So just from the battery post charging from the Alternator is a most. And 10-15sec 100% throttle runs every now and then is all that require. So a setup for 12V to 48-60V to charge and some sort BMS. So what would you guys think a smallish but adequate battery set would be? All us some displacement guys (3.6L V6) is about 6 psi of boost.
I have a set up of a BMS for charging and it work verry good!
 
i would defiantly keep away form thus bus packs.. there is a guy on YT who bought some.. They were unusable as they were because some of the cells were dead (800mah) while the best were 1800mah (2450mah is new) which is also pretty bad..
 
This is going to be a bit long winded.

Ok let me the first to admit I got a bit caught up the the power race and over looked my goal and requirements and the most important aspect of my project car build. Nope it not the E-Changer but the High-End Sound Quality audio system to represent my speaker company. So tons of power was never the goal for this project. However it is a show car secondly and power adds are a part of the show car judging in this organization.

So with the above in mind I had step back and weigh my goal for the E-Charge part of the project and yep Ok I am etching to my build started as I don’t have a ton of time left to get it done before the competition season ends. So that puts me in position I need to purchase products that are a bit more really available to me.

So my realistic goals for the power adds/performance mods to My 2011 Cadillac CTS Coupe Performance 3.6L LLT Direct Injected build.

Performance mods already performed:

Custom (my own design):
3.5” cold air intake

Overkill 76mm ported Throttle Body

Ported to 78mm composite intake manifold with JabFab Lamintor FX molded in: This unit weighs about 8-9lbs less the stock aluminum unit and lower the heat soak by a good amount and increase Air flow my about 20%.

RX Insolator: This unit lower the intake manifold temperature up 40 degrees.

Custom (my own design): Cat back exhaust.

Plans:
Snow Performance (have, but not installed): water/methdol stage 3 injections kit.
Custom: Smart E-Charger system

So now my thoughts and question on my E-Charger setup:

First and foremost parts are to be readly available.

Next power goals are 325-350whp. Car stock dynos at 245-260 depending dyno used
Not spend more than 4K building it.

So the P2 super charger unit seems to be a given do to its efficiency and low rpm requirements to get to the level of boost I and/or we desire. Going back over the numbers mention here and looking at the calculation 23-26000 rpm will be need to get about 4-5 psi of boost. Considering I looked over the net at the LLT and LFX 3.6L engines on boost from a turbo setup (so no lost from the extra engine having to drive the super charger) running 6 psi of boost was seeing 140-180 extra HP at the crank depending on what other mods had done and the tune. So with E-Changer being more like the turbo with no power lost from engine having to drive the unit 4-5 psi of boost should put me right where I want to be of 325-350 to the wheels
Thoughts and comments. Please correct me if am wrong.

Now to the driving force of the system the motor choice. Looking at impeller speed requirements for 4-5 psi of boost, any of the below mention motors should be able to meet the required 23k to high 28k(6 psi) rpm speed with easy. Now the require power comes into play with the amount if current draw and operating voltage range of said motor.

Now,

The LMT30100 continuously does 17KW with a peak/max of 40KW with voltage range of 60-120(?) is without a question the best choice, see specs here for those who have not seen them:


however the LMT3080 does 14KW if remember correctly continuously with peak/max of 30KW so it would work just as well. Even the LMT3060 at peak/max of 17KW might work for my setup. However none of the LMT product are readily available here in the U.S. Which bring me back to the TP5860 and TP5870 at max 15KW.

So lets look at the numbers:
So theoretical at 5 psi of boost at 3000 - 6000 rpm I will need the motor to make about 13.5 shaft HP which is about 10.1KW at 6000rpm. So at the 48Volts I want to use, that is what about 211 amps of draw. If I go up in Voltage current draw would drop, later on that. Looking at those numbers if I am correct even the TP units should be comfortable in that range well the TP5870 (750KV) anyways. Please correct me if my math is wrong. I did round up the numbers.

So it looks like the TP-5870 (750KV) would work for MY requirements.

TP-5870 (750kv) specs:

53 max voltage

Max 283 amps

40000 max rpm

9000 kw continuous power

15000 kw peak/max power

So with those specs in mind that is about 755rpm per volt. So at 48 volts, max rpm should be around 36,200. So 23-28000 rpm should still be easy running for the 5870. Also the 10.1KW of power require for my 5psi at 6000rpm should be within its range also. Yep that 17KW (40 max) or even the 14KW (30 max) of continuously power the LMT30100 and 3080 is crazy appealing and at some point I may upgrade to one of those units.
Once more please correct my math if I am wrong.

Now it is ESC time. Going with one of APD ESC. Honestly any of them should work. Even the NV-Pro 24s 200 amp Continuously and 300 amp max should be within the range but at the limits?
Thoughts?

Which I hate it would be at of close to it limits as I found a good deal on the 24s. So the 20s still seems like the best choice at 85V and 300 amp continuously and 450 peak.

Now What need input on is a battery pack setup. I would like to stay around 48V range.
Now with that said one of the techs at my job I was talking to about the project said he had a few (6) EV car Lithium-Ion packs he would sell me for cheap and thought they would work.
Specs are:
16s1p

60V

6500mAH

390WH

What do you guys think of these units? And how many would I need if they work? I was looking to use the Sterling Power smart charger 12 to 48 step up unit. But if the above units will work I will find another charger. And with 60V rating it would allow for less draw at 5psi at 6000rpm. Drops from 211 amps to 170 amps. Which puts me within the 80-85% range of the 24s 200amp continuously rating and about 60-65% of 300 max rating. Now at 60 volts that out side of the 53 volt rating of the TP5870. Which shouldn't be an issue or would it be?

Sorry this was so long winded just trying to wrap my head around it all and start moving forward with the build.

Thanks in advance for all your input!!

And Go!!
 
This is going to be a bit long winded.

Ok let me the first to admit I got a bit caught up the the power race and over looked my goal and requirements and the most important aspect of my project car build. Nope it not the E-Changer but the High-End Sound Quality audio system to represent my speaker company. So tons of power was never the goal for this project. However it is a show car secondly and power adds are a part of the show car judging in this organization.

So with the above in mind I had step back and weigh my goal for the E-Charge part of the project and yep Ok I am etching to my build started as I don’t have a ton of time left to get it done before the competition season ends. So that puts me in position I need to purchase products that are a bit more really available to me.

So my realistic goals for the power adds/performance mods to My 2011 Cadillac CTS Coupe Performance 3.6L LLT Direct Injected build.

Performance mods already performed:

Custom (my own design):
3.5” cold air intake

Overkill 76mm ported Throttle Body

Ported to 78mm composite intake manifold with JabFab Lamintor FX molded in: This unit weighs about 8-9lbs less the stock aluminum unit and lower the heat soak by a good amount and increase Air flow my about 20%.

RX Insolator: This unit lower the intake manifold temperature up 40 degrees.

Custom (my own design): Cat back exhaust.

Plans:
Snow Performance (have, but not installed): water/methdol stage 3 injections kit.
Custom: Smart E-Charger system

So now my thoughts and question on my E-Charger setup:

First and foremost parts are to be readly available.

Next power goals are 325-350whp. Car stock dynos at 245-260 depending dyno used
Not spend more than 4K building it.

So the P2 super charger unit seems to be a given do to its efficiency and low rpm requirements to get to the level of boost I and/or we desire. Going back over the numbers mention here and looking at the calculation 23-26000 rpm will be need to get about 4-5 psi of boost. Considering I looked over the net at the LLT and LFX 3.6L engines on boost from a turbo setup (so no lost from the extra engine having to drive the super charger) running 6 psi of boost was seeing 140-180 extra HP at the crank depending on what other mods had done and the tune. So with E-Changer being more like the turbo with no power lost from engine having to drive the unit 4-5 psi of boost should put me right where I want to be of 325-350 to the wheels
Thoughts and comments. Please correct me if am wrong.

Now to the driving force of the system the motor choice. Looking at impeller speed requirements for 4-5 psi of boost, any of the below mention motors should be able to meet the required 23k to high 28k(6 psi) rpm speed with easy. Now the require power comes into play with the amount if current draw and operating voltage range of said motor.

Now,

The LMT30100 continuously does 17KW with a peak/max of 40KW with voltage range of 60-120(?) is without a question the best choice, see specs here for those who have not seen them:


however the LMT3080 does 14KW if remember correctly continuously with peak/max of 30KW so it would work just as well. Even the LMT3060 at peak/max of 17KW might work for my setup. However none of the LMT product are readily available here in the U.S. Which bring me back to the TP5860 and TP5870 at max 15KW.

So lets look at the numbers:
So theoretical at 5 psi of boost at 3000 - 6000 rpm I will need the motor to make about 13.5 shaft HP which is about 10.1KW at 6000rpm. So at the 48Volts I want to use, that is what about 211 amps of draw. If I go up in Voltage current draw would drop, later on that. Looking at those numbers if I am correct even the TP units should be comfortable in that range well the TP5870 (750KV) anyways. Please correct me if my math is wrong. I did round up the numbers.

So it looks like the TP-5870 (750KV) would work for MY requirements.

TP-5870 (750kv) specs:

53 max voltage

Max 283 amps

40000 max rpm

9000 kw continuous power

15000 kw peak/max power

So with those specs in mind that is about 755rpm per volt. So at 48 volts, max rpm should be around 36,200. So 23-28000 rpm should still be easy running for the 5870. Also the 10.1KW of power require for my 5psi at 6000rpm should be within its range also. Yep that 17KW (40 max) or even the 14KW (30 max) of continuously power the LMT30100 and 3080 is crazy appealing and at some point I may upgrade to one of those units.
Once more please correct my math if I am wrong.

Now it is ESC time. Going with one of APD ESC. Honestly any of them should work. Even the NV-Pro 24s 200 amp Continuously and 300 amp max should be within the range but at the limits?
Thoughts?

Which I hate it would be at of close to it limits as I found a good deal on the 24s. So the 20s still seems like the best choice at 85V and 300 amp continuously and 450 peak.

Now What need input on is a battery pack setup. I would like to stay around 48V range.
Now with that said one of the techs at my job I was talking to about the project said he had a few (6) EV car Lithium-Ion packs he would sell me for cheap and thought they would work.
Specs are:
16s1p

60V

6500mAH

390WH

What do you guys think of these units? And how many would I need if they work? I was looking to use the Sterling Power smart charger 12 to 48 step up unit. But if the above units will work I will find another charger. And with 60V rating it would allow for less draw at 5psi at 6000rpm. Drops from 211 amps to 170 amps. Which puts me within the 80-85% range of the 24s 200amp continuously rating and about 60-65% of 300 max rating. Now at 60 volts that out side of the 53 volt rating of the TP5870. Which shouldn't be an issue or would it be?

Sorry this was so long winded just trying to wrap my head around it all and start moving forward with the build.

Thanks in advance for all your input!!

And Go!!
at 48V you might find the 5870 (or any of the alternatives!) pulling more amps than you thought!
(there WILL be load on the motor! Our base calculations are theoretical lower thresholds!)

The APD HV Pro 24s might become bottleneck then (if you don't go higher with voltage!).

If you insist on 48V (as I do!): stick to the APD HV Pro 16s ... my 2 cents!

I general: if you rush it piecing your parts together you might find yourself not saving time nor money! My recommendation: careful and always add some safety (and cost!) margin.
 
This is going to be a bit long winded.

Ok let me the first to admit I got a bit caught up the the power race and over looked my goal and requirements and the most important aspect of my project car build. Nope it not the E-Changer but the High-End Sound Quality audio system to represent my speaker company. So tons of power was never the goal for this project. However it is a show car secondly and power adds are a part of the show car judging in this organization.

So with the above in mind I had step back and weigh my goal for the E-Charge part of the project and yep Ok I am etching to my build started as I don’t have a ton of time left to get it done before the competition season ends. So that puts me in position I need to purchase products that are a bit more really available to me.

So my realistic goals for the power adds/performance mods to My 2011 Cadillac CTS Coupe Performance 3.6L LLT Direct Injected build.

Performance mods already performed:

Custom (my own design):
3.5” cold air intake

Overkill 76mm ported Throttle Body

Ported to 78mm composite intake manifold with JabFab Lamintor FX molded in: This unit weighs about 8-9lbs less the stock aluminum unit and lower the heat soak by a good amount and increase Air flow my about 20%.

RX Insolator: This unit lower the intake manifold temperature up 40 degrees.

Custom (my own design): Cat back exhaust.

Plans:
Snow Performance (have, but not installed): water/methdol stage 3 injections kit.
Custom: Smart E-Charger system

So now my thoughts and question on my E-Charger setup:

First and foremost parts are to be readly available.

Next power goals are 325-350whp. Car stock dynos at 245-260 depending dyno used
Not spend more than 4K building it.

So the P2 super charger unit seems to be a given do to its efficiency and low rpm requirements to get to the level of boost I and/or we desire. Going back over the numbers mention here and looking at the calculation 23-26000 rpm will be need to get about 4-5 psi of boost. Considering I looked over the net at the LLT and LFX 3.6L engines on boost from a turbo setup (so no lost from the extra engine having to drive the super charger) running 6 psi of boost was seeing 140-180 extra HP at the crank depending on what other mods had done and the tune. So with E-Changer being more like the turbo with no power lost from engine having to drive the unit 4-5 psi of boost should put me right where I want to be of 325-350 to the wheels
Thoughts and comments. Please correct me if am wrong.

Now to the driving force of the system the motor choice. Looking at impeller speed requirements for 4-5 psi of boost, any of the below mention motors should be able to meet the required 23k to high 28k(6 psi) rpm speed with easy. Now the require power comes into play with the amount if current draw and operating voltage range of said motor.

Now,

The LMT30100 continuously does 17KW with a peak/max of 40KW with voltage range of 60-120(?) is without a question the best choice, see specs here for those who have not seen them:


however the LMT3080 does 14KW if remember correctly continuously with peak/max of 30KW so it would work just as well. Even the LMT3060 at peak/max of 17KW might work for my setup. However none of the LMT product are readily available here in the U.S. Which bring me back to the TP5860 and TP5870 at max 15KW.

So lets look at the numbers:
So theoretical at 5 psi of boost at 3000 - 6000 rpm I will need the motor to make about 13.5 shaft HP which is about 10.1KW at 6000rpm. So at the 48Volts I want to use, that is what about 211 amps of draw. If I go up in Voltage current draw would drop, later on that. Looking at those numbers if I am correct even the TP units should be comfortable in that range well the TP5870 (750KV) anyways. Please correct me if my math is wrong. I did round up the numbers.

So it looks like the TP-5870 (750KV) would work for MY requirements.

TP-5870 (750kv) specs:

53 max voltage

Max 283 amps

40000 max rpm

9000 kw continuous power

15000 kw peak/max power

So with those specs in mind that is about 755rpm per volt. So at 48 volts, max rpm should be around 36,200. So 23-28000 rpm should still be easy running for the 5870. Also the 10.1KW of power require for my 5psi at 6000rpm should be within its range also. Yep that 17KW (40 max) or even the 14KW (30 max) of continuously power the LMT30100 and 3080 is crazy appealing and at some point I may upgrade to one of those units.
Once more please correct my math if I am wrong.

Now it is ESC time. Going with one of APD ESC. Honestly any of them should work. Even the NV-Pro 24s 200 amp Continuously and 300 amp max should be within the range but at the limits?
Thoughts?

Which I hate it would be at of close to it limits as I found a good deal on the 24s. So the 20s still seems like the best choice at 85V and 300 amp continuously and 450 peak.

Now What need input on is a battery pack setup. I would like to stay around 48V range.
Now with that said one of the techs at my job I was talking to about the project said he had a few (6) EV car Lithium-Ion packs he would sell me for cheap and thought they would work.
Specs are:
16s1p

60V

6500mAH

390WH

What do you guys think of these units? And how many would I need if they work? I was looking to use the Sterling Power smart charger 12 to 48 step up unit. But if the above units will work I will find another charger. And with 60V rating it would allow for less draw at 5psi at 6000rpm. Drops from 211 amps to 170 amps. Which puts me within the 80-85% range of the 24s 200amp continuously rating and about 60-65% of 300 max rating. Now at 60 volts that out side of the 53 volt rating of the TP5870. Which shouldn't be an issue or would it be?

Sorry this was so long winded just trying to wrap my head around it all and start moving forward with the build.
Thanks in advance for all your input!!

And Go!!
at 48V you might find the 5870 (or any of the alternatives!) pulling more amps than you thought!
(there WILL be load on the motor! Our base calculations are theoretical lower thresholds!)

The APD HV Pro 24s might become bottleneck then (if you don't go higher with voltage!).

If you insist on 48V (as I do!): stick to the APD HV Pro 16s ... my 2 cents!

I general: if you rush it piecing your parts together you might find yourself not saving time nor money! My recommendation: careful and always add some safety (and cost!) margin.
I have no issue with doing the 16s or 20s as I stated above.

48V i would like to stay around that area. But if the 60V battery will work i will di that. 3 of them in parallel is 19.5AH 1.17kwh
 
All i would say is that your numbers are idealistic where everything is 100% efficient and batteries have no IR..

1)A battery charged to 48 will not deliver 48v under load

2) Motors, ESC, Wiring have losses so required current/electrical power will be higher than the mechanical power you need to apply.

3) A motor with a 750KV with 40volts applied gives you a theoretical RPM of 30,000prm But this is unloaded RPM. RPM underload ( compressing AIR ) will be much lower.

4)"Now at 60 volts that out side of the 53 volt rating of the TP5870" 53v is not the max voltage of the motor. The numbers given for the Different KV's are what would give you their max power ratings and Max RPMS. You can give the motor more voltage if you don't exceed the RPM or Power ratings.

5) All the numbers (Current) motioned are constant numbers and therefore is the Lowest theoretical numbers. The motor will pull many times these numbers in "Stall" so you'll need to manage the ramp up speed of the motors to not pull crazy Current. OR have massive over spec ESC to allow for this.
 
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