Meet my 7,000 amp load tester...

AlexLTDLX

Administrator
Staff member
I'll be making a video on this soon, but aside from a few details, my giant load tester is done. At this point, it's fully operational. Because I'm trying to get the new packs in the car as soon as possible I took the path of least resistance and leveraged cheap and plentiful 3d printer parts - extrusions, corner fittings, even a printer lead screw. It easily holds 400 amps from a car battery for 15 seconds. The only part that seems to get a bit warmer than I would like is the top plate - but I used a piece of aluminum I had in a drawer. It was a perfect fit - literally no trimming, It was at about 120* F after the 15 second test. It's .125" thick. The carbon pile was around 100* F a few minutes later.

Can it really hold 7,000 amps? Well, compared to the Harbor Freight 500 amp carbon pile testers, with a few light mods (heavier cables, thicker top plate, bigger shunt/ammeter), yes. I initially bought 3 of those testers thinking I could hook them up in series. It would've worked, but two were defective right out of the box (1 was an easy fix, the other had a cracked disc in the carbon pile) and you'd need three arms to constantly balance the current and voltage between the 3. But those piles (that works on 2 levels - ha!) were 2.5" in diameter, about 1.5" thick with discs about .125" thick. Plus the design was stupid - the current traveled through the tightening screw; you could literally hear the sparking while turning the knob. The discs in my tester are 4" in diameter and .250" thick. The Harbor Freight units have about 7 cubic inches of carbon pile. My unit has over 100 cubic inches of carbon pile. And this thing moves like a dream - stainless leadscrew, brass nut; supported on ball bearings. In fact it has a built-in safety feature - let go of the knob, and the weight of the pile and the smoothness of the mechanism lets it float down fairly quickly. And it doesn't clank when it comes down; there's a fairly stout die spring on the bottom, sitting on a teflon "button" press-fit on the brass lead screw nut.

I apologize if this comes across as bragging; it's not really that as much as it is I'm surprised that it came together as quickly and the end result is as seemingly good as it is considering I had no plan in mind when I ordered those carbon discs a couple of weeks ago and a lot of it is leftover and recycled parts - the cables, the material for the top and bottom plates, heck, even the board was a part of a large equipment crate for studio equipment.

Anyway, I've rambled enough - here it is:
LoadTester.jpg
 
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I want to watch the packs under load before I put them in the trunk so I can address any issues (and see them, for that matter). Also, this gives me the ability to perform controlled load tests on various different batteries, which I seem to be accumulating frighteningly quickly. Another reason is running the blower without the engine running sends the compressor into surge, which isn't good for the bearings, motor or ESC. If I disconnect the discharge and just run it open, it'll actually blow the hood up, disengaging the hood prop and the hood will fall. Plus with that much high velocity air in such a small space, every piece of dust, metal chips, etc. go airborne and make a holy hell mess. Finally, it's just plain scary. Ask me how I know ;)

On the last point, think of running a 20 hp leaf blower in your garage while trying to feel around for potentially fatal issues in the trunk under the package tray...
 
Houston, we have a problem. Just for grins, I decided to try one of my Lishen packs on the load tester. Before I tell you what happened, remember, welding voltages are around 20-30 volts. What happens with the tester is that as soon as the carbon pile makes contact, it strikes a rather vicious plasma arc and the 500 amp current meter pegs - plasma is a VERY good electrical conductor. It works flawlessly on 12 volts; but 35-36 volts is a problem. I wonder if there's a way to solve this problem...
 
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Last night I finally had a chance to shoot and edit a video about this thing:

The Lishen cells (those were from my "reject" pile, btw) only dropped about 1.2 volts under a 350 amp load. The car battery, by comparison, dropped over 3 volts under the same load. Projecting that drop over the whole pack, we should be around 61 volts (I believe I said 63 volts in the video); with cable drop taken into account, I'm thinking we should see at least 58-59 volts at the ESC. Compared to the LiPos, which were down to 50 volts in the ESC data logs (48 volts when one of the parallel packs got disconnected). 2 volts difference gave us about a .3 psi boost difference. So hopefully this new pack should be good for another 1.2 psi (this is all just theorizing, of course). Which means a peak boost over 7 psi and minimum boost of 5.5 psi. So another 60+ hp from what we saw on our previous drag test. Which translates to 130+ mph quarter mile speeds. We're approaching the power level of the Whipple, which weighed far more and needed about twice the boost to produce the same power. Who knows? The LTO cells may drop less over the course of a run, so boost may hold on a bit better too.
 
Based on 9.76 - 8.68v @ 350amps IR is 0.00309 ohms ... or 0.0007725 ohms per cell or 0.7725 milli ohms per cell.

However the 350 amps is very vague .. pity you didn't use a clamp meter
 
I calibrated it with a clamp meter - the analog meter is surprisingly accurate. Anyway, I went ahead and did the next obvious thing. I'll just start a new thread on it, mostly because it's just dumb fun.
 
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