How / where to get a Turbo Compressor converted to E-Turbo & designs

MkngStffAwesome

MkngStffAwesome

Active member
I feel like my mate will never come through and machine up my e-turbo... and even if he does it might be to large anyway.

So this is about how and where to convert a turbo turbo over to an E-Turbo.

In theory it's rather easy if you have the tools (which i dont) .. but there's Easy and then there is something that will last more than a few months.

Thought's..
 
I understand from some of your posts you have "space restrictions" and therefor are interested in a smaller TURBO conversion (vs centrifugal SC)?

@WB projects already DID his himself ... maybe he can help?
 
E-turbo who makes a 500$usd 12v 1300watt e turbo does it like below..

To me securing the wheel to the shaft like that seems like a bad idea and wouldn't handle the 4kw plus i was hoping to deliver. What are peoples thoughts ?

This E-Turbo uses the RHF55v housing


I think they use this motor
Tenshock 1:10 Short Course 4Pole Sensorless RC Cars Micro Brushless Motor SC401

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That's exactly how I built my first "e turbo" - the one that was only intended to be a crankcase evac pump. It's still sitting on my second desk and shows no signs of failure of any sort. But that was only about 700 watts. To be honest, just using set screws to the motor shaft is by far the easiest thing to do. Who knows - we may all be over thinking and over engineering the loads on the bearings. No one's had a bearing failure yet. Heck, very few of these actually exist.

I would think the impeller wants to pull off the shaft, but I really have no idea. Maybe I should do some tests with the small unit to find out exactly what sort of loads to impeller imparts on the motor shaft. I could put a dial indicator on the impeller and see if it moves in or out; and if the movement is different than what happens to the motor shaft without an impeller on it. I'm almost certain that there's a vacuum under the impeller when in the volute.

If you have any ideas on how else I could test for bearing loading I'm happy to try it.
 
That's a valid concern. My two setscrews have come loose on the hex drive; but I *think* that's because I was having issues with the motor "chugging" - not having sync with the ESC because the motor cables were too long. I even went as far as looking for high quality, knurled point setscrews. But when I install the new control box, I'll pull the motor and see if they're loose again (I hope not & I don't think so, but I'll feel better if I check). "Unbrako" is one brand that makes really high end hardware.
 
@AlexLTDLX @MkngStffAwesome
I use green locktight 😅 I first want to make it precision fit (heat and cold) or even press fit, but I dont have the tooling for macking small hole like this more precis then a friction fit. I considered tac weld but it can bent and unbalence the thing. so I use green locktight 3000psi of strenght up to 0.010" of play I think.. for now It dont failed 😂
 
You mean instead of setscrews? That's a great idea. I did use red loctite on the set screws themselves. But green loctite on the motor shaft itself is a good idea. And I could use heat to remove it. Thanks!
 
AlexLTDLX said:
You mean instead of setscrews? That's a great idea. I did use red loctite on the set screws themselves. But green loctite on the motor shaft itself is a good idea. And I could use heat to remove it. Thanks!
Click to expand...
I first don't want to tell (not because I want to keep it secret) because I was afraid to make people laugh at me 😅
 
That's a pretty common thing to do - I wish my hex drive socket was a couple of thou tighter too. I didn't think of it; thanks again!
 
Thank you for the reply I was going to ask how you connected the motor to the shaft.. So to be clear you just "glued" them together ?
Also can you link to what you used. Because i dont know what "green locktight" is.. Could you post a link.

Thanks Once again.
 
loctite (sorry is not locktight) is a brand but most commonly is thread locker. you have différents color and number for different application! the green one I use is green loctite 609. this is for when you have 2 louse part, example you have a bearing to install in a housing, but you mess the housing of 0.010", you can use green loctite to "fill" the gap. this is an example but all color/number have different application
 
AlexLTDLX said:
That's exactly how I built my first "e turbo" - the one that was only intended to be a crankcase evac pump. It's still sitting on my second desk and shows no signs of failure of any sort. But that was only about 700 watts. To be honest, just using set screws to the motor shaft is by far the easiest thing to do. Who knows - we may all be over thinking and over engineering the loads on the bearings. No one's had a bearing failure yet. Heck, very few of these actually exist.

I would think the impeller wants to pull off the shaft, but I really have no idea. Maybe I should do some tests with the small unit to find out exactly what sort of loads to impeller imparts on the motor shaft. I could put a dial indicator on the impeller and see if it moves in or out; and if the movement is different than what happens to the motor shaft without an impeller on it. I'm almost certain that there's a vacuum under the impeller when in the volute.

If you have any ideas on how else I could test for bearing loading I'm happy to try it.
Click to expand...
Hi everyone, I'm Lucas from Brazil, and here my major difficult, another amoung other concerns such like have a currency thats equals 1:5 of a dollar, anyway.... its to find an Supercharger or Compressor. Brazil's only uses Turbo Chargers, that's said I've been wonder about that tiny thing at your desk.
If you uses your actual system (the TP Motor, ADP and Batteries), it will makes enough boost to enter on those performance islands shown on the "how to size a turbo or supercharger"?

Ah just a context, I have a FIAT (yes, Its commom on the South of Atlantic lol) Bravo with a small engine, just an 1.8 12valves NA. So any turbo size could make a hell of a power in that tinny engine torquewise (I think at least).

I've been consuming all the content for the past two weeks and man oh man I want my e-turbo too! :ROFLMAO:

Thanks for the space, be nice and be well!!
 
Welcome Lucas. The tiny thing on my desk was never designed to be an e-turbo, but rather a crankcase evacuation pump. And thanks for watching that compressor map video - not just for the view on youtube, but also now you hopefully have a better understanding of why it wouldn't make much boost - it's not turning fast enough to be on the compressor map. The TP Power motors are much more powerful, but they still wouldn't spin fast enough. But they would have plenty of power to be geared up (I'd say about 2.5:1 would get you pretty solidly on the map with that little turbo - that would at least get you to 80,000+ rpm depending on boost).

I just did a quick search, and this motor would get you there direct-drive:
www.ebay.com

TP Power TP5670-CM Brushless Motor 85K RPM for RC Car Arrma Limitless Infraction | eBay

Ideal for speed run on 1/7 cars and light 1/5 cars. RPM: 85.000RPM. TP5670-CM Motor 85.000RPM. Timing motor: 0 degree (avoid ESC without degree setting). Max RPM/ Amp/ Volt: less than 10sec. Motor mod: TP5670-CM.
www.ebay.com

It's expensive, and in fact overkill for your situation. If you can find a compressor (turbo) that'll give you the power you're looking for at a reasonable rpm - like say 50,000 or 60,000 rpm, it'll be easier to find a motor to match. I'd be looking at 5kW-7.5kW motors for your car. It's a balance with what's available. In my opinion, you're more likely to find a small, cheap used centrifugal supercharger head unit than a turbo, but either would work.
 
BTW - that motor above, with the supercharger I mentioned in the "supercharger I would start with" thread would be good for at least 450 hp - most likely more than your engine could handle. A Torqamp is a good option for you too, if the $$ isn't too bad with your exchange rate.
 
AlexLTDLX said:
Welcome Lucas. The tiny thing on my desk was never designed to be an e-turbo, but rather a crankcase evacuation pump. And thanks for watching that compressor map video - not just for the view on youtube, but also now you hopefully have a better understanding of why it wouldn't make much boost - it's not turning fast enough to be on the compressor map. The TP Power motors are much more powerful, but they still wouldn't spin fast enough. But they would have plenty of power to be geared up (I'd say about 2.5:1 would get you pretty solidly on the map with that little turbo - that would at least get you to 80,000+ rpm depending on boost).

I just did a quick search, and this motor would get you there direct-drive:
www.ebay.com

TP Power TP5670-CM Brushless Motor 85K RPM for RC Car Arrma Limitless Infraction | eBay

Ideal for speed run on 1/7 cars and light 1/5 cars. RPM: 85.000RPM. TP5670-CM Motor 85.000RPM. Timing motor: 0 degree (avoid ESC without degree setting). Max RPM/ Amp/ Volt: less than 10sec. Motor mod: TP5670-CM.
www.ebay.com

It's expensive, and in fact overkill for your situation. If you can find a compressor (turbo) that'll give you the power you're looking for at a reasonable rpm - like say 50,000 or 60,000 rpm, it'll be easier to find a motor to match. I'd be looking at 5kW-7.5kW motors for your car. It's a balance with what's available. In my opinion, you're more likely to find a small, cheap used centrifugal supercharger head unit than a turbo, but either would work.
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Hi Alex and thank you for the reply, really! That was my concern, any turbo "centrifugal" (just for my brain discerns from both) isn't spin rapidly enough, but since I continuing follow the videos (subscribed obvious) it's keep beeping in my head, and please correct me if I said anything wrong, but my thoght is; taking that TP Power that you linked for me - thank you again - if I purchase an 2510kV with output a 48V batteries, a similar design that have been used for @WB projects on his Focus (yes man, I have been follow ALL of you crazy e-boost dudes), using a dont know maybe an Garrett M24, but my doubt it's about the impeler will be strong enough to resist the direct drive.
But searching in the internet I found these guys
teccharger.com.br

Compressor Supercharger Linha PRO TEC 300 - Teccharger - Air cooled performance

Compressor Supercharger Centrífugo
teccharger.com.br teccharger.com.br
(sorry for the website be in portguese only)
They actually work with VW Bettles and a Ford V8 small block, but I think maybe be a solution for the Compressor. Let me know what you guys thing about it!

Be nice and be well!!
 
First thing to check is the space for the e-tubro! I've been veeerrryy lucky with my set up because 1" to the left or right, up or down or little bit bigger. The e-turbo would not fit (without modification) 😂
 
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