GOOD NEWS FOR THE WB E-TURBO

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WB projects

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hey everyone! super good news and nice update for you! some issues but some are fixeable and some I can live with it! The bms I bought and blow in like 15min have been refund and replace with an other brand and it work really good with my step up to **charge** the batterys. the only issue I have with this is I'm block to 31.1v for the pack instead of 33.6 full charge. BUT with 30sec of run time I drop to 29.6v and after 2min it goes all the way to 31.1v. So this is super fast for me! The other issues I had was my three phase wires was 8awg. it supposed to be just enough for me! but they become hot enough to get biger one. so im now with 10' of 4awg. Now, Alex suggest me to get capasitor because the motor use to "buck" a little bit and I have consider this solution but I want to try without it. So bigger wire=less chance of voltage drop, so mayyyybe no need to use capasitor (in my case). now my esc was programmed 100% power and the motor still bucking. one thing I realised is my 2 6" 8awg wire from the betterys to the ESC was crazy hot ! So! I supposed that may cause a voltage drop and the ESC cut off because he thincking the batterys is low. I turn down the ESC to 70% (still need to get bigger wires for the battery to the ESC) and now it work like a charm!! So this is a small 20min test I need to make to have good sleep! tomorrow I will try something else and fine tunning it!
I have a friend who ordered a torqamp with the same car I have! will be fun to compare

ps. sorry for my english 😁
 
Solar BMS's like the one you bought before are NOT chargers. What BMS do you have now..
How are you charging the batteries ?
How much current does the Motor pull ?
It would also be interesting to know what the battery voltage is at the time..
 
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well the BMS work just fine, it balence the batterys all good.. its the same like before but from an other company. I charge the battery with the alternator with a step up to 12v to 38v. I don't have make a test yet of the current the motor pull but for now I just make things work. at the time like a said the battery stays to 31.1
 
MkngStffAwesome said:
Solar BMS's like the one you bought before are NOT chargers. What BMS do you have now..
How are you charging the batteries ?
How much current does the Motor pull ?
It would also be interesting to know what the battery voltage is at the time..
Click to expand...
The batteries need to be charged with a CC/CV supply ... the step up have a current limiting ( thats my CC source ) and a top voltage adjustment ( thats my CV ) ... i know the BMS is not a charger itself but it there for balancing my cells.
 
BMS is batteries management système that protect you batteries for OVERCHARGED and OVERDISCHARGED ... my ESC is rated up to 400A and my motor up to 250A ... i dont want to spend money on 300A BMS so im taking the risk to not use the OVERDISCHARGED protection and monitoring the battery with a voltmeter ... so im using the BMS only for OVERCHARGED protection
 
That is awesome! The reason for the capacitor bank at the ESC is to prevent voltage spikes from frying the ESC. You need low ESR (equivalent series resistance) capacitors or they might blow up. If your motor's bucking, it could be because your motor cables are too long. I tried that at first (ESC inside the car) and could not get it to work. It would just buck all the time. Apparently, it's a known thing - the long cables prevent the ESC from being able to sync to motor (in our systems, the motors are sensorless, so the ESC is reliant on the back EMF from the motor to know how fast the motor's spinning - make the motor cables too long, and that back EMF signal becomes somehow mangled and the ESC can't sync to the motor.

Of course, except for the capacitor thing, if your ESC is already next to the motor (with short wires), then that's not you issue.

BUT I WANT TO SEE VIDEOS! :p
 
I will probably change the setup and put the ESC clost to the motor. the video is on YouTube in couple minutes ! bad news since earlier
 
Well you have done alot .. so that's cool

Since you have a 300amp breaker it seems unlikely that you'd pulled to much current and killed the ESC that way.

Voltage drop would be interesting at the time though.. and amp draw for interest sake.

You wouldn't have thought that re programming it would have broken it..
 
MkngStffAwesome said:
Well you have done alot .. so that's cool

Since you have a 300amp breaker it seems unlikely that you'd pulled to much current and killed the ESC that way.

Voltage drop would be interesting at the time though.. and amp draw for interest sake.

You wouldn't have thought that re programming it would have broken it..
Click to expand...
the chinese ESC **supposed** to be 400A and 500A in peak. of course it supposed 😂 soooo now maybe thincking of an other ESC that I can put closer to the motor without watercooling. When I put the ESC to 70% it was almost perfect so I try to mess with the timing degrees 0 supposed to be more powerfull and less heat and 25 is more speed but more heat. some said that 0 degree to an 12poles motor is bad but when I go up I had more issues. but dont know exacly when it blow
 
Why dont you connect i back up to your PC and take a screen shot of every tab/page and post them here.. it might just be a setting that got stuffed up.
I also have the same ESC as you i think.
 
sorry I mess arround trying to make it work after.. but for wath I remember the most important is start up at medium, linear and 70%, max power 70% too and the timing 0. after for the hertz I let it at 8 but if you know wath exactly this do, plz tell me
 
The point at which it starts and stops spinning could have been changed by accident..
Number of cells could be wrong now...

Are you able to connect to it and pull all the settings from it ?

Also some other device is telling the ESC to start accelerating maybe the problem is with that..
 
like I said event if I plug it, yes I can give you the settings but I mess with it for 5min after it stop worcking. yes I heard that too if you start it to "hard" setting, it can blow right away
 
yes I can but the settings will not be usefull because it's not the worcking or the blowing setting
 
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WB projects said:
the chinese ESC **supposed** to be 400A and 500A in peak. of course it supposed 😂 soooo now maybe thincking of an other ESC that I can put closer to the motor without watercooling. When I put the ESC to 70% it was almost perfect so I try to mess with the timing degrees 0 supposed to be more powerfull and less heat and 25 is more speed but more heat. some said that 0 degree to an 12poles motor is bad but when I go up I had more issues. but dont know exacly when it blow
Click to expand...
used phantom e-chargers creep up once in a while.. a guy was selling one for 250 USDs a few months ago with a fried electric board. i was not able to get it unfortunatly. if we can get our hands on one just to replicate it, it would be really cool.
 
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