Flip flopping E-Turbo Project

I think that would be awesome (no pun intended). Since you're so good with microcontrollers and electronics, ever consider switching your car over a Megasquirt? I don't know if you can legally, but it works great (once I figured out the bugs) in my car. But my car is older and has historic tags, so I can get away with that (if anything, it runs cleaner than it ever did in stock trim).
 
Well the problem i have is that i need to drive this every day.. so i dont have time to take the car apart for a few weeks/ months to sort that.. also since i dont have a garage what happens if it rains for a month in the middle.. I could buy a second car but what's the point i should just sell this and buy a trubo car ( im poor ish so that wont happen)... I am very worried that in the end i will get NOPED by the cars ECU making this a horrible waste of time and money.. However i have to believe it is possible as it seems that people can "torque amp" on stock ECU's
 
This have just gotten worse for me :)

As previously mentioned i bought 3 types of batteries for testing. it looks like two of those have bee "Lost" in the mail. The only ones that have turned up are the Headways..

IR test with a AC test has one at 3.93mO and the other at 2.65mO
With a DC load tested the resistance is measured much higher 52mO and 48mO

Even worse than the missing batteries is the fact that i have found evidence to suggest that an E-Turbo will not work on my car.
This is not exactly the same model as mine, this is a 1500 (i think) and mine is the 1600 but they are basically the same..

So sadly i think the wisest thing to do is to quit while im behind :(
I am glad that i discovered this now and not later though.

Best of luck everyone.


e turbo fail 1.PNG

e turbo fail 2.PNG
 
Well im back again.. I just dont want to give up this because it will be super cool if it works and there is no other practical way to increase power this much...
I think i might save up for the Budget eturbo that i just pictured to get this project actually moving forward then i can maybe upgrade it.
I was planning on getting a e-turbo made up but due to continued Covid restrictions it doesn't seem like that will ever happen

Alternatively if someone ones to make a E-turbo that would be super cool..
 
Im going to try these LTO's

1634791125954.png

1634791151242.png

Im expecting to actually get these because they are from the same seller that i bought the headways from that i received

These have a very low IR for their size and they seems to be legit based on the you tube videos, with people pulling huge loads (way more than the 60a ) and the voltage not dropping much.

At this stage i could run 6 of these for the 12v battery and then 12 of these (28.8-33.6v) for the e-turbo @ 150amps thats 4.32 KW or 5.8hp .. which is more than what i need for my goal ( about 3kw/4hp ). I like to believe that staying under 150amps should avoid the "Alex factor" on a 400amp esc

 
Lol - "Alex factor." Do you have a way to load test them yourself when you get them? I'm also interested in their self-discharge rates and resting voltage after a day or two after being charged up to 2.6 volts. My Lishens seem to have a pretty high self discharge rate, and they won't hold more than 2.6 volts for any length of time.
 
I have the two IR testers that i posted at the beginning... while they can't impose a 300amp load they can confirm if they have the same IR as each other (looking for bad cells) and if my results are the same as what can be found on youtube where people have put the various cells under great loads and used similar testers.
As for cell voltage drops once sitting i'll test that when they arrive. But also like i have said to you previously according to internet tests we are better off to intentionally under charge the LTO's it would seem. This seems to result in less initial drop.


full charge to 18.3v (6s)

1634843677703.png


charged to 2.416v 14.5v (6s)

1634843745285.png


Yes this does reduce capacity.. and no i can't confirm that the above is true.
 
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Charging them in the car or on the bench?
My set up with the BMS work perfect. You can use a power supply for the bench test
 
WB projects said:
Charging them in the car or on the bench?
My set up with the BMS work perfect. You can use a power supply for the bench test
Click to expand...
i dont have a constant current constant Voltage system to charge them.. i guess i'll buy the same one that everyone has bought (the boost controller) i also need to think about bms yet again..
 
Also @Alex it seems like the voltage falling back to 2.6v when charged is normal as that is what happened in the pic i got from your tube. it also doesn't look like it it falls back if charged to 2.4. Charging to 2.6 might be interesting test too.
 
Yeah, that'll be interesting to see. I'm not getting that warm and fuzzy feeling about my Lishen cells, but at least I have 60 of them to pick and choose from - your tests would help confirm or deny my feelings. As for charging them - you certainly can use the boost converter I (and a couple of others) have got. It works ok, but as with almost all chineseum, the ratings are a bit optimistic.

For the record, my bench supply consists of a transformer out of an old amplifier, along with a 25 amp bridge rectifier (overkill, but cheap enough), caps from the same amp, and this CC/CV buck converter:


It's worked well for several years, and I do run a small fan on it for heavy loads. I made mine easy to transport. Here it is, in situ, on the corner of my messy project desk:

PowerSupply.jpg
 
Here is my home job. It predates when you could buy those nice controllers like you have.. This can't do CC but i have never need that. One thing i like about this is it has a dedicated 5v out cos i always need that.

I might buy one of those bucks like you posted because having CC for charging these LTO's would be nice.

1635192369434.png


On your LTO's they seem good to me why dont you like them...

Also i have flopped back to running my turbo off Just 12v for the simplicity of it and because it is doable on 12v. I can always change it later.
 
Lol... somewhere I have the carcass of my very first DIY variable power supply - I was about 12 when I built it around an LM317T. At one point, I even cribbed a power transistor (TO3) from somewhere to increase it's current capacity.

Re: the buck converter - do you mean that boost converter I'm using in the trunk? Or the buck that's in the power supply above? They're both fine for the LTOs; but on the boost converter, the ratings are rather optimistic. I really don't like my electronics running hot or even too warm - it cuts down the life pretty dramatically.

Do you think 12 volts will be enough?
 
in the very last post i was talking about getting a buck like you have in your bench PSU. cause that would always be useful.. and if im sticking with 12v then i dont need one of those boost controllers on my car.

Will 12v be enough.
Well as you know 12v is enough for anyone. The only implication of running 12v over a higher voltage is that you'll need more current for the same power. In the real world running high current is a big problem and a limiting factor. As you're probably aware i have been big on telling everyone to run as high a voltage as possible to reduce current and this is still the Correct thing to do.

The problem with going for more voltage is that this is obviously a more complex and costly setup ( cost is a big deal for me ).
For example i want to remove my 12v lead battery and replace it with a small 12v battery and an higher voltage pack in the same physical place and total size. in this case i will need to boost from 12 to higher voltage.. but also i will need to go from the higher voltage back down to 12v. Because the 12v, while being able to start the car it will have a small capacity so will need a means to change the small 12v pack from the larger e-turbo pack otherwise it could run flat easily ( sitting or listening to music.. lights on....)

If i have space for 3 x 6 of those little LTO's it could be configured like this

high voltage
1x 6 = 12v pack
1x 12 = 24v pack

24v * 100 amps give me 2400kw (100 amps per cell)

12v voltage
3x 6 = one large 12v pack ( with no wasted 12v cells)

12v * 200 amps = 2400kw ( 66 amps per cell )
No requirements for bucks or boosts, alternator can charge will full power.

This does assume i can run 200amps.. ( though i would like to run more ) ... im guessing i can run 200amps (for a start) from my filer but would like more, 300 would be more than enough.

Right from the beginning i was concerned about "Power" so as you'll see i made my turbo take 2 motors which of course doubles ( in theory ) the power OR if you like 1/2 the current. But yeah i'll need to motors and two esc's.. The sad thing is i doubt i'll ever get this machined up so it moot probably lol.

13* 200 = 2.6kw or 3.5hp... according to BW that is enough for 2.8psi at redline..
13* 300 = 3.9kw or 5.2... according to BW that is enough for 4.1psi at redline..

Thoughts ?
 
I can look at your design and machine it if you can't find no body.
For the battery I will post a new trend soon and I will talk of it! I thought that I have a decent battery but It take a loooot more juice. I can do a "nice" pull on 3th gear and that's it. Yes I need to solve my voltage drop but still. I think with your small battery you will have issues.
 
It's not actually a simple thing to get good cells, which is why i bought a bunch of testers.. Do you have a link to the cells you bought...
Also have you checked how many amps it uses and what Boost you get... we need a video :)
 
I have arround 2.5-3 PSI through all the power band. I will see all this info when I will do a datalog with the ESC later this week.
This is the cells I use 24 of these (12/12 parallel)

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