Anyone tried a MY1020 scooter motor instead of RC motors ?

[Jeff23spl]

I did read and watch some of what have done yet and it is mostly with RC motors at high speed dealing with RC stuff issues.

I was wondering if anyone would have used a different route with a biffer motor. I played a bit with kick scooters/ebike and larger BLDC motors. Yes it doesn't spin fast enough to run direct drive a turbine wheel but, what about having it mated to an overdrive belt and pulley?

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Different from RC specs, those motors are tested to run continuously at the advertised power and some run them at 2-4x past their rated power.
The cheapest one could probably run burst of 7-8kw at up to 7-8000rpm. I could probably get the rotor balanced to get it past it's max RPM design.
those are also already designed for lateral load from a drive system with room for vibration and abuse.

The controllers that goes with it work with a 0-5v throttle signal and has some safety features to accept more abuse. I think about a possible pedal throttle right below the gas pedal, to match turbine flow to engine load.

What about mating one to a P2 blower using a 4:1 pulley ratio? is it a realistic project ? I did read that it comes with a 18t pulley, i would need about 72t on the motor with a special machining to make it fit but since it is larger, i should not have issues for a larger shaft size.

 

[r.brown.bayliss]

Would need to be more like 1 to 6 or 1 to 8 ratio I think. So that increase the load a lot. I expect it will suffer from inertia, they look quite large, so they wont spin up quickly and being geared 1 to 6 or 8 will be slow, basically they will be laggy. Think of it like an old 10 speed push bike and trying to start off in 10th vs 2nd or 3rd gears.

 

[Jeff23spl]

Would need to be more like 1 to 6 or 1 to 8 ratio I think. So that increase the load a lot. I expect it will suffer from inertia, they look quite large, so they wont spin up quickly and being geared 1 to 6 or 8 will be slow, basically they will be laggy. Think of it like an old 10 speed push bike and trying to start off in 10th vs 2nd or 3rd gears.

The 4:1 comes from running the my1020 at 7-8000rpm to get 28-32k rpm at the blower.
In that case, the motor rpm limit is mechanical (rotor and bearing said limits from peoples testing it to destruction) but i can increase the electric rotating field to compensate for magnetic slippage (Erpm vs real rpm). voltage can easily be increased with those setup or even field weakening be used to boost rpm with better controller.
Im not planning to get the blower any faster than 30k rpm when i check the flow map, I'm more afraid of surging it than not having enough flow for my 155hp asthmatic 2.0l. (I know i would better use a smaller compressor wheel but the P2 remain easier to adapt than a turbo for my limited machining skills...i'm evaluating that option)

For gearing and load, i do agree but on the other side, a slower motor of same power make more torque to move more mass at lower speed. It will probably be less efficient but the extra torque should compensate for the extra load at some point.
The other motivation is because i already have 2 motor and controllers that i can re-use from other electric conversion projects vs buying rc stuff. And i am familiar with those compared to RC, i can replace the fets for a couple $ if i burn it while ESC surface mount need more skills and tools to work with.