Search results

It's totally DIY at this stage as no one has actually finished their own setups yet.. So selling anything it not possible...

Technically 48v is always better than 12v and 60v is always better than 48 and 400V is always better than 60v... The reason why you might chose a lower voltage would be ESC limitations ...(cost) That battery obviously can't power your system,... well not one of them anyway :)

I didn't say you couldn't do it.. i said you couldn't do with without gearing it. As this guy and i have said many times .. The P2 is not a viable option for many cars because it is physically to large. WB projects uses a fake "GT35" compressor wheel

I am literally using a "GTX3076" 1.6L going for 5psi 2L @ 7000 RPM @ 14psi = a 29hp motor ... and looking at the compressor map that would be 33lb/min. That will happen at just under 100,000rpm This wont happen with a direct drive E-turbo and so will need to be geared. On this forum so far...

wow dood i just looked up how much that box of toys cost !

wow that esc is huge...

Something like that.. If your going to stay with 12v then you'd probably need an array of ESC's and motors. so it's much cheaper and smaller to just up the voltage and use one esc and one motor

sorry i had the battery math wrong 20psi at 3500 rpm is about 26hp.. or 19kw... this is some thing similar to alexis first build.. 60v * 300amp = 18kw. At 19kw at 12v is 1583amps. This current is unrealistic for one ESC and motor BUT @ 60v which drops the current to 300amps that is achievable.

As for batteries if they are 65ah you'd need 100 for and hour, 50 for 30 min 25 15min 12.5 for 7.5min... I imagine that would take up alot of space and weigh alot to say the least. Updated got the math wrong lol

Well 2L @ 7500 @ 35psi requires some 105hp (78kw) into the turbo shaft.. While possible this seems rather un realistic.. At 12v that is some 6500 amps, which is also "rather un realistic" I believe the the e-turbo setups designed to lessen turbo lag are obviously less powerful and then by...

i think you need to start at the beginning and work out the power required to achieve your goals 1)What engine size do you have.. 2)What is readline rpm 3)What boost do you want to run at read line 4)What what run time are you looking for at max power... Realistic please .. 5) Are you trying...

yeah that was the place i found .. i was hoping for a cheaper place

where is the best place to get a vesc (lowest price )

i must admit i have no idea what you are talking about FOC / BLDC... It just excited me about PID mode and still does..

i expect the MGM to just work too.. DID APD replace your ESC's or is that just money thrown away

Im with cmoalem... the VESC seems awesome .. Better than the MGM .... But it is the most expensive so thats to be expected... It seems like you can take assurance that it wont catch fire. Also i personally love all the nerdy stuff with it... The APD seem to be the worst .. because despite their...

yeah have you found out what that is meant to do lol ? (that gain )

it is interesting that the Motor current is so much higher than the battery current ( Average ) though that makes sense since motor current is alternating. Apparently really High AC current relative to DC current is a function of having to higher KV and throttling it back (lower efficiency)...

Oh to be clear im talking about electrical efficiency.. defined by.. the amount of electrical power (watts) sent to the motor V that actual amount of torque applied to the load...greater the efficiency the longer the run time ( lower amount of electrical power required to apply the same...

"duty cycle" is a nerd way of saying throttle percent. "KV" is now much RPM you get per volt.... so 1000kv gets 1000 rpm per volt so at 50v that 50,000 rpm ... a 2000kv motor at 50v gets 100,000. HOWEVER this is an Unloaded Motor ... Free reeving... nothing attached to the end of the motor ( no...