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My new Castle motor came in, so I was able to prototype the stack with my upgraded metal parts (initial prototype was 3D printed ABS). Below is the hub that I cast in aluminum (after machining) mounted to the motor. And here it is with the bearing and shaft in place. Below is the stack with...

Glad you talked me out of TIG welding precision parts and challenging me to use a mechanical fastener. Oddly enough, I landed back at the fastening mechanism from the original design. In the picture below, on the left is the original bearing assembly. On the right is the new cast aluminum hub...

The machining is going well so far. I have also been concerned about warping the aluminum with heat and would hate to ruin this components. Those are wise words of warning. I have warped more than aluminum component in my lifetime. I will ponder some mechanic attachment mechanism. I could...

Would you be able to share what you are using for the bypass? I need to start planning for getting my system on the car and have been pondering this point. Do you control it also with your ECU or are you using another sort of micro controller? Also, are you triggering just based on throttle...

I received the email from Castle today that I needed to pay the replacement price for the motor and shipping. But I called and talked to them and the repair department lady literally had my motor in her hand and said it was probably a bad motor (could tell by the amount of balancing compound on...

Wow, sounds like it will be quite a system. For some reason, I can’t see the pics. Can you try the upload picture feature instead of a google link? Do you have any idea on your current torque or horsepower and any design target on gains? There is nothing like the feeling of parts on the...

Well, still no word on my electric motor. But I did get a call from my crank shaft company, and the offset stroker crank to make my 2.0 liter into a 2.4 liter is complete. In the meantime, I decided to follow WBs lead on aluminum adaptor plate between the motor and housing. But, I do not have...

Thanks WB, I heave really enjoyed your journey and am excited for you to get back in the game. If I were wealthier, I would just send a new ESC to you. I too excited both about the castle motor and the cooling that you have for it! Out of curiosity, 1) how much boost were you able to run and...

Uh oh. The weekend is upon us and I have nothing to build. But wait, maybe I can make constrained progress. While I am waiting on a new motor rotor, I decided to design and 3D print some trays to hold my various electronic components. I like the way my big 4 gauge battery wires fit the Anderson...

Good news and bad news. The good news is record runs today and my battery looks viable for my system. The bad news is that my motor rotor flew apart. The first pull of the day was a record in many ways. It was so good. It ramped right up, did a hold, and ramped right down. It spooled smoothly...

I was excited to break the 60K RPM barrier. That said, I hope that there is more potential beyond the 61,200 RPM limit. Although a best for my system, perhaps it was just the limit of the day (I still had more room on the potentiometer). I will make a few more runs today and see if we can do...

It totally worked! I did 3 things 1) I charged my battery, 2) reprogrammed my ESC to a lower cut off voltage, and 3) I labeled my battery so I remember how to charge it without doing calculations. 1) Charging the battery was easy thanks to the easy disconnect with the Anderson connector. 2)...

Thanks for the kudos on the homemade DIY heavy duty wire crimper. It worked great, and the cables are the least of my worries now. That said, I do like the looks and flexibility of the Amazon crimper. Thanks for the link. I need to ponder how to assess my battery build. It came with solid copper...

Today, I completed the much needed battery lead upgrade. I had performed an initial test with some super short super undersized 18 ga wires when I was anxious to see if the battery worked and could get the ESC powered and motor to spin. Those were way undersized but already had jumper cable ends...

Thanks for the reply Alex. I like your thinking. We will see how far I can get with my sub $200 budget battery. A friend of mine made a mild steel adaptor shaft to go between the motor and compressor. So, I am back in business (the business of doing experiments that is). I am still working on...

I started the project by making an Excel spreadsheet with volumetric air flow as a function of RPMs and boost pressure for my engine as well as compression ratio and horsepower estimates. Then, studied the torqamp, which although a bit pricey is quite similar to what I am looking to build...

The car is a 1971 Opel GT. It comes with a 4 cylinder 1.9 liter Cam-In-Head engine that made somewhere around 89 HP, but the car is quite light at around 2,000 pounds. The car was my uncles who died a weak decades ago. The car was quite rusted out (you could see the road if you pulled up the...

Thanks for the reply. I am away on vacation now. But, I have a friend who machined a shaft coupler on his lathe with surprisingly low run out. He shipped it to me and I hope to test it when I get home. That had been my limiter. Hopefully I can spool it up and do the choke test without the...

I have found the forum to be quite helpful and inspirational. Thus, I am creating a thread for my build. It is sort of an R&D project, so will likely have quite a few iterations and twists and turns. That said, I hope to make some legitimate boost and serious gains in torque.

Here is a pic of the assembled battery array. And here is a chart of a Data log from an early pull while my shaft assembly was still working. I got it up to about 45K RPMs at 39% throttle and somewhere over 2 PSI with my version of the Snorkus. Volts dropped from 39 to 33 and I pulled about...