nice ... so instead of a watercooling jacket for the motor a dual fan setup!
One pusher plus one puller fan?
(Have you considered measuring underhood airtemps with hood closed and driving around? Is very well dependent on "position" and can get quite hot!)
Ice packs work nicely with A/W intercoolers... for drag pulls.
@AlexLTDLX what is your take on this ? is the A/C compressor robbing more power than what you can gain with refrigerating?:
https://killerchiller.com/
gnaah ... I have a serious problem getting batteries from china.
The first seller had to return my money because of "shipping irregularities" (fake shipping, fake tracking number, but AliExpress stepped in).
The second seller is trying to sell me something else than what I had chosen from his...
try this link:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/P-2-Centrifugal-Supercharger-Polished-Head-Unit-/351907501076?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
or this...
oops ... above link updated.
... and I just found them on ebay as well (as Fisker Karma modules refurbished and more expensive).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fisker-Karma-A123-Battery-Module-MBB-/255127942784?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Soooo ... Fisker...
eyeballing 2 (48V) of those now 😜:
balancer built in, well packed, big capacity, high enough discharge
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/A123-Prismatic-module-7s3p-24v-60ah_1995389992.html?spm=a2700.9114905.0.0.njEagC
And here the latest update:
Particularly interesting for the "belt drive" variant!
So I found the seller boltonbearings UK on ebay and ordered THIS:
1) Timing Belt T5, 5mm pitch, 25mm wide (T5-260 52 teeth)
2) Pulley T5 36T5/12-2
3) Pulley T5 36T5/15-2
4) Pulley T5 36T5/18-2
after a shipping...
There are charts somewhere (youtube, torqamp website) which show for certain engines the boost over rpm.
One more vote for DIY!
(your engine reaches those power levels over RPM ... pretty sure the boost charts shown do not look particularly good above 5000 rpm!)
Only if the electric motor of your choice does not overwhelm the ESC built into the the controllerbox!
TorqueAmp are using a setup which turns more rpm but probably less load on the eMotor. (smaller motor, turbocharger with unknown map, barely enough CFM for a 3.0 engine)
I would NOT go that...
one more thing : modern EFI cars with Drive By Wire do implement some smart throttle valve control! Your pedal position is NOT linearly/directly connected to your actual throttle valve position (TPS).
(Thats why I intend to get TPS / LOD in addition to RPM through OBD2 data traffic!)
does your car have some kind of VVT?
you might be running different CFMs of air through the intake at the same RPM (but different gear means different "load request")
you might be running against a wall with the eMotor?
I just stumbled over this:
what would be the differences/challenges to tackle Nissan Leaf inverter vs Prius inverter?
(in the EV world ESCs are called inverter to 3 phase AC)
I might have figured it out ... first I thought it is a double delta ... but then I came to another schematic which is kind of "extended delta".
will post a pic later when I have computer access.
after some brain pain (still persisting) I found this thread:
https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5976
trying to digest that ...
and that :
https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/market/11658515
yes ... I get what you're saying ...
ESC wise wires A1 and A2 ore on the same end ... on the motor end if you start wrong you could really mess up.
The important take from the video instruction is "start from one PHASE at the motor" ... so it does not matter A, B or C ... but it should be A1 or...
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