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Great results! It’s exactly what I calculated a while ago, probably pure luck that I got to around the same number but i’ll take it 😜. What’s the main reason for the voltage drop in your pack? Cells themselves? My BMS can go to 24S, and I got 24 cells, but decided to stick with 20S for now to...

Battery brackets are finally in! Well, partly. I received 18 instead of 24, so can only make a 18-cell pack right now. Also one of the cells turns out dead so it's time to find out about Hakadi their return policy. I now need to figure out a way to reinforce the battery pack and mount the BMS...

I was also wondering about the seal between the backplate and the housing: Seems like they prepared a nice edge for an oring to be seated, but they didn’t. Shouldn't this be sealed? I’m still happy with my P2 purchase by the way. I would take any solution apart anyways, and upgrade where I...

It’s all relative I guess ;). During my job we would go with the simple, safe approach as well, but it’s nice to go all out on a hobby project. Especially now we have the AI tools of today. The current approach will allow me to easily tune the “boost” map, and also help me understand system...

Somewhat boring update but I have been working on the electronics / controls of the system in the past few weeks. The idea is to use the ODB-II connector to sniff the ECU CAN-bus for current RPM / TPS values (to start). This is then put on the "supercharger" CAN-bus, which has the: Main...

And done. Did a first test run at 100% on 6S. Basically cooks the batteries but it does seem to work well.

Working on the other side now, takes some time as it’s removing a large chunk of aluminium. Tomorrow I can probably finish the motor mounting holes and start testing.

The thing is, it’s already noisy when I spin it by hand, and while I would expect the mass of the compressor wheel to rotate for at least a few seconds, it stops within a second. It’s also impossible to remove the back cover without using a hamer, I’m afraid it simply does not have enough...

Belt is in, got to about 5000 motor rpm but then got scared of the 3D printed motor bracket vibrating apart. Working on the aluminium version now: Finishing the other side tonight, I hope. My current 6S lipos are also starting to show their age, so getting to max rpm on 6S might not be...

I didn't, thanks, that was a very interesting thread. Looks similar to what I plan to do. Got the motor controller, motor and BMS in. Still waiting for my belt, but made a quick test setup using a 3D printed TPU belt and 6S lipos. That was very very sketchy, but allowed me to get to about 3000...

What worked for me was dropping the “high efficiency machining” and just doing 60-80% stepover with 0.5 mm DoC and high feedrates. Yes it will wear down (but so far they're fine) the cheap aliexpress endmill at the tip, but it’s fast and easy on the machine. Having great results with that.

This one has got a 200W spindle @ 12krpm and doesnt seem to have any problems with aluminium. It’s not super fast, but I’m removing about 2500 mm3/min while roughing, which isn’t too bad. The community firmware hacked a 3D probe into the workflow, that has been great, makes everything so much...

Started to work on the motor mounting bracket. More or less the first “real” thing I made on my desktop CNC, really happy with the result: Also: - ESC + motor should be in somewhere in the next two weeks - BMS is also on the way, went with a JK BMS 300A variant - 24T pulley is in - Need to...

I would add additional protection in this case, yes. And I would go with a Victron solution which is pretty well known for the quality of their stuff. It's still risky though.. You would say that a modern car has some form of voltage clamping on their 12V system, a sudden disconnect of the...

You've got a sensored connection between your motor and ESC right? This should allow you to log the motor temperatures, did you check those? Please note that the magnets cannot really handle high temperatures, and it will demagnetise them as a result. Probably good to check this and maybe...

That’s a feature in a RX-8, built in cup heaters. People using the stock cat will know. They get very very hot.

Are you creating those graphs using a "road dyno" by the way? If so, could you explain how you're doing this? Would be nice if I can do the same once I have my setup running, sometime in the future. Or do you just have easy access to a normal dyno?

Some solid gain! How much PSI was this? Looks like this is more or less the maximum you can squeeze out of the MAX4 / 70125 setup. Would the next step be a dual motor setup :D?

moved to your thread

Sounds like a TorqueAmp solution might work for you if you don't want to go the DIY route. Otherwise you would need to source a battery, motorcontroller and turbo which needs to be modified, yourself. Most of us go with a P2 supercharger as it's relatively cheap, moves a lot of air and is easy...