Have not hooked a gauge up yet but I suspect it's around 5psi lower down and 4psi up top.
Is it maxed? .......... I dunno. The more I experiment the more It hits home that the ratings for all this componentry is based on continuous current so can be exceeded by a wide margin for short bursts.
I...
New 25T pulley installed and tested. Results below are best I've seen so far.
Saw as much as 346A at 44V on the BMS
Getting batteries warm definitely has a positive effect on power output. Even with LTOs, which supposedly work down to very low temps.
Depends on your goals ......... 22 gave me 4psi in midrange and 3psi up top at 250A but I want to max out at around 300A so went with a 25T. Should give me another 1 psi.
Have just found a weakness with the drive pulley on this new motor setup. The M5 grubscrews holding the toothed pulley are insufficient for the job. The one that tightens onto the flat part of the motor shaft basically twisted in it's thread and allowed the shaft to rotate past it. My plan is to...
I have much the same components as you and have just found a weakness. The M5 grubscrews holding the toothed pulley are insufficient for the job. The one that tightens onto the flat part of the motor shaft basically twisted in it's thread and allowed the shaft to rotate past it. My plan is to...
One of the best chassis in the world (no bias here :LOL:) just begs for more power! Certainly looks like you are on the right path -good luck on the journey.
Tested the new motor. Performance is practically identical, same power from engine, same power consumed by motor. I do feel like the new motor will handle higher loads with ease though, so am ordering a larger pulley.
I saw the conversation on here but decided to just 'send it' and see what happened. No problems so far.
I think mine initially spun more freely than that though.
Shaft size is the same . Got a 22T (at 560Kv) pulley which should give close to theoretical same speed as the Castle was (15T and 800Kv). So it should be a good performance comparison.
Think of nominal voltage as the 'average' voltage of the battery over its useful range. For best results you need to keep battery charged up - but you shouldn't go over the rated cell count for the ESC/motor if you want it to survive.
There are 8 different charging programs, none of which were designed for LTOs. But seeing as I couldn't find any alternatives at the time I just bought it and xd my fingers. It could benefit from more aggressive charging but otherwise it works great.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008138198450.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.49.667a1802yJIvWn
I see a heap of projects half finished on this site :
Before you start spending money , ask yourself if you are prepared to spend a ton of time learning about how all this stuff works...
I use a 12-48v on board charger made for RV vehicles that I bought off Aliexpress. My Alternator is a stock OEM 100A 12v. The charger is designed to charge while the battery is being discharged and this is how I'm running it. So far no issues at all with that. I have noticed that it pulls a few...
This is something I'm a little unsure of. The AMPs the ESC records don't seem to corelate with what's coming out of the battery. I noticed that on one of Alex's videos the cable to ESC was flowing 265A yet the ESC recorded 320A+. Maybe @AlexLTDLX can clarify ?
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