Search results

I used Zeee batteries for my initial tests (including my first drag test). After much testing, they're not great batteries. They should work, but keep an eye on voltage drop. Here's a load test I did that included my best Zeee batteries:

That's kinda what I'm thinking. It might be an easy way to pick up 5% more hp.

Do you all think it might be worth trying something like these: https://amzn.to/3XYnqIM I don't think they'd make a lot of boost, but maybe stacking several together might actually be worth something; particularly relative to the low cost. Do you think it's worth exploring? It'd be very easy...

I like that motor mount design a lot. It's quite elegant. Would you be willing to share the files with us?

matnrach - do you have current draw and voltage under load data? Also, what do your batteries weigh? I'd like to see how much smaller/lighter a Lipo setup would be for your setup, especially since it's a low duty cycle application. GTHound - at the end of the day, working for your...

Here's a sample discharge curve, fwiw:

For lead/acid batteries, the shape of their discharge curve is terrible, as is the life. Plus they have a pretty poor internal resistance for their weight. Can they be made to work? Yes. Are they worth using? No, not in my opinion. Lithium battery types pros/cons: LTO cells are the...

I think you're spot on. Looking forward to your results. And as for the Stratus, well, why not? Besides, insurance is bound to be cheap.

Welcome!

Casting your own back plate is awesome. I love all the stuff you guys are trying. I'm not sure I would TIG that casting to the backplate for fear of warping it - maybe some sort of mechanical attachement method might avoid that issue and maybe give you room for a little adjustment?

I use fine sandpaper to clean the contacts before I bolt them on with noalox - something in the realm of 240-600 grit (usually whatever I can find first). There's about a half a volt difference between copper and aluminum on the galvanic scale, with copper being more noble than aluminum...

Awesome! I'm really impressed with the rpm you're able to hit. As for the battery, when you're internal resistance limited, it's better to have fewer cells in series. Do you have enough cells to do a 2p setup? That would in theory cut your voltage drop under load. LiFePo4 cells are a good...

I really like your crimp solution. I have a hydraulic crimper, but it's designed for metric wiring - so not all awg cables fit the dies well. You've given me a great idea on how to make the correct dies fairly easily. Thanks! Though the more I crimp heavy cables the more I like this...

Thanks for posting this - I wrote a long reply asking for this stuff in the battery thread, then I saw you were already doing it here. Can you post pics of the the car's engine and your surrent e-boost setup and your datalogs and stuff here? I feel they're getting lost in the battery thread...

GTHound - you can start taking voltage measurements at various parts of the battery during a run and comparing it with what the ESC is seeing. Like 88fiero says, you may have a bad connection somewhere. Even if you're only using 8 gauge wires (for example), at 18 inches long, you'd still see...

Hi Mateen - I was looking at your datalog and was puzzled, until I re-read your post. 3 car batteries - I assume lead/acid - well, that answers that question, lol. Thanks for posting that data.

I think you're pretty much spot on with everything. Running more cells than necessary has two advantages and two primary disadvantages. The advantages are that you can compensate for voltage drop. The other advantage is you don't have to charge them all the way - if you look at a typical...

There are two main issues - both related. The brushless controllers you're referring to typically can't handle the sort of eRPM we're looking for. There are a few controllers with ultra-high eRPM options (Kelley is one, but I'm not sure how you'd buy one); and that adds substantially to the...

Golf cart stuff is too heavy, big, slow and inefficient. You probably could get something to work but it would be huge and heavy, and still be less powerful than the smaller stuff (and probably more expensive).

You are literally right in the sweet spot for the P2 hobbywing Castle setup. It will make somewhere between 350 and 400 horsepower on your engine and probably more torque than your engine could handle. Of course you could dial it back: