No. I'm talking about the current being drawn from the battery vs the current pulses going to the motor. VESC and APD both show it in their logs; MGM doesn't. Let me give you an example - if you're motor's running at 50% duty cycle, then power is only going to the motor half the time. So the...
Lol - I've been trying to get that link to work forever - I never bothered to translate the error I would get (it's in German - everytime I see German, I just hear Sergeant Schultz's voice in my head (from Hogan's Heroes) and everything goes blank). Thanks to drother's screen shot, (and knowing...
I was told that you don't feel cogging when fewer poles - so my TP Power motors cog pretty hard (6 pole); my Castle motor cogs a little (you can feel it, but it doesn't really make it difficult to turn - it has 4 poles); my 2 pole LMT motor spins smoothly.
I'd love to see some sort of diagram...
That's good info. I think since this is the first OEM unit easily available, the CAN data will either be deciphered or a relatively easy work around will be developed. At least I hope so...
The bearings in my TP Power motor aren't rated for the speeds the motor can turn. I wonder if that's an issue here? WB could be right - it could also be surge beating things up.
I'll hopefully be able to do some meaningful testing with the Castle motor and the P2 unit soon - I've already spun it up on low power and it's a lot better than the TP power motor, at least with the vesc. Dunno if it'll take as much power yet though.
True. Lol about the weather - for me, it's too hot to race or go to the dyno - it was 96* F today (~36* C); there's a window here in the fall and in the spring, then winter's too cold. The nice thing about Texas (where I bought land) - it's cooler in the summer than here, and all of winter...
Someone sent me a link to a company that makes alot of these wheels... unfortunately I don't remember where it was...
It is pretty amazing how cheaply they can do this stuff. I wonder what will happen if they attack Taiwan? When do you think you'll have your stuff back together?
I found this today - a guy is drilling holes in copper sheet, soldering nickel strips to the sheet, and then spot welding the nickel sheet to the cells. But your solution might be better. Check it out (scroll down a bit): https://www.electricbike.com/introduction-battery-design-2/
That looks exactly like the billet impeller I'm using (obviously mine is bigger, but the machining is almost identical) - the difference is I paid about $600 for mine. Where did you get that from?
The APD could likely be the best $$/performance ESC available. The mosfets on the APD are good for 600 amps combined and 80 volts... so their ratings are probably very conservative, esp. with heatsinks.
That looks great. What did the voltage drop down to under load? And yes, I'm thinking of ordering the APD F series myself - WAY cheaper than the other APD and should still support (barely) the P2 unit at full tilt. Plus it has conformal coating - that the more expensive one lacked...
Wow - the battery stuff looks great. I'm glad it's working out for you. I have to say, I have an original 75/300 VESC, and it's really not good. It doesn't even perform the same day to day with the same settings. I wouldn't recommend another one. I've been using in in my most recent videos...
I agree with WB - more voltage is better (up to a point) - you get less current draw, less cable-related voltage drop, etc. I would encourage you to try to stay away from a gear box - not that it's impossible, it's just very difficult to make work at these speeds reliably. I'm discovering a...
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