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The initial math for determining the foundational equipment is straightforward given it involves basic engine performance parameters, the most important in my opinion being naturally aspirated peak flow air needs and expected flow requirement at desired power and rpm level. That is the value...

It's a Flier ESC so the durability and dependability maybe questionable from what I've read, therefore you aim for far more power support than you need with a relatively inexpensive ESC. If you go popular, proven brand name, you can select closer to requirements as they are also much more...

You'll need to draw up real plans using the specifications for the parts. I recall the TD04 turbo being on the small side so what does its compressor map look like, how much air will the motor need at the set goal and where does the air requirement sit on the compressor map, what is the rpm spec...

No I wouldn't, I'd say there's potential to do even greater harm. I learned that manufacturers actually appeared to have built profit generating features into many cars to support the repair industry, as well as possibly set traps for DIYers. The most notable I recall is a starter relay...

I wouldn't risk the step down voltage to 12v for vehicle use given all of the attached 12v accessories. I had an alternator failure once in the form of excess voltage. In this case I smelled burning electronics which drew my attention to the voltmeter and then the radio which along with the dash...

I had this experience once while diagnosing an engine performance issue on a stock vehicle. It turned out to be a fueling issue that resulted in a glowing catalytic converter well beyond normal limits. The smell of transforming carpet prevented me from unknowingly pressing on toward a potential...

Has anyone confirmed the exducer diameter of the P2 compressor/impeller wheel? I noted the inducer diameter of ~3" but see no spec for the exducer. I saw the modified wheel Alex posted in the video () and the amount of exducer blade diameter removed will significantly affect the performance as...

I'm looking at the TP5860 as a potential direct drive with its 50k rpm, the TP5670 with its 85k rpm gear reduced to 2:1, or slightly lower ratio to torque multiply it up to the 15kW level of the 5860 and the LMT 3080 and 30100 which is what I should go for to cover the full range of power level...

I'm not confident about this arrangement either given the belt temps I've measured over short test durations of no more than 30 seconds at a time. My belt is on the narrow side at half an inch and it is not a "T" series belt but 240 deg F free wheeling without pressure resistance in place is...

Upgraded the power wires to 8 gauge from what was probably 16 ga for testing and no improvement with the fault. In addition, I noted a problem I had not detected before but suspect it was present, when I touched the belt I noted a fine oscillation indicating the motor was not completely off and...

I purchased the VESC version 2, 200A model last year because it was priced well for current level it could support and I wanted to keep the initial build low budget until I could produce results to justify using the "Money Hammer" on higher performing equipment. The motor is a TP 4070, 1400Kv...

I've given this wakeup call to members on another website I frequent explaining that I have data logged inlet temps and noted little more than 1 deg difference between inlet air temps and ambient temps on the same car. The stock airbox has a snorkel that pulls up along side the headlight area...

I believe you're both over thinking this. The focus should be on a functional electric supercharger, as for an onboard charging system, a simple on/off or open/closed circuit activated when the supercharger is in use can be deployed to disengage charging during that brief period, something as...

Get a 48v alternator from a hybrid car and figure out the control wiring, or purchase an conventional style 48 volt alternator and regulate up or down to the voltage and current rate you need. Both can be found on ebay for around $3-600. Or you can buy an external charger in the right voltage...

You're comparing apples to oranges here, you can't compare directly the type of loads an RC car would pull to those of a supercharger, also heat is energy and the differences you are seeing at the ESC vs anywhere else is an element of efficiency, work is being done inside the ESC as well as the...

You didn't provide any specs on the compressor and housing you posted a picture of and the proper way to assess the practicality of that combination is to calculate the cubic feet of air (CFM convert to lbs/min) that your motor will require to meet your goal and then plot that value on the...

In one of my Turbocharging books (Maximum Boost probably) or some other literature I read over the years, for every 10 deg drop in motor inlet air temp you can expect a 1% bump in power. As it relates to rpm, for every gram of weight reduction in the valve train or rotating assembly that is...

First understand that you do not require as much boost with an electric turbo than you do a traditional turbo or supercharger, so the quantity of additional fuel management needed is much less, as a result of the absence of parasitic horsepower used by a turbine housing, or supercharger belt...

The weight gain is minor when considering the weight burden of a traditional turbo outfit. Every time you carry a passenger you'll be adding far greater weight than the batteries add. 100 lbs of batteries are acceptable as far as I'm concerned relative to the efficiency of the system, especially...

The link to the ESC was very helpful to me as I'm trying to decide on what high range voltage to run for a balance between practically priced ESCs that can handle the current loads dependably and a battery configuration that is high voltage, high capacity and easy to obtain in quality used...