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I did not particularly want LiPo in my car so went down the route of 2 12v AGM motorcycle batteries. The application is for my twincharger so it is only used as anti-lag with a relatively small power demand and not constant boost. It is sized for my application but has on board charging with a...

Couple of notes. My backplate is very thick and printed with 100% infill. (Why would you do anything else?) You must restrict the decel (and to a lesser degree the accel) of the esc in the code to limit instantaneous current and inertial forces on the rotating assembly. How are you measuring the...

I don't have any contact with the compressor wheel and the housing (so far). I made the position of the wheel relative to the housing exactly the same as the original turbocharger. The PEEK front support (not a bearing) seems to be fine as is the carbon nylon backplate. As I have mentioned it is...

I use something like this which is effectively a tuned accelerometer with no amplification or filtering. The ECU or additional knock control circuitry does the rest...

I fitted my own one however the sensor itself will not do the job unless it is correctly calibrated to your engine using the code in the ecu you have. I would speak to the manufacturers of the ecu about what sensor they used to confirm the functionality of the code , if indeed they did at all...

Running high boost at low RPM will not damage the engine if it is mapped correctly i.e both the ignition and fuelling are correct. When I used to map highly boosted rally engines many years ago I remember that the ignition timing was around TDC for borderline knock. If there is a possibility of...

I think you will find it is capable of running the motor to full speed. I thought the same thing with mine but had no issues (yet) However I do not run it continuously but only for a few seconds at a time

Maybe but I really didn't want to experiment and made it the absolute best it could be.

To be honest the build of the supercharger was simple compared to the infrastructure required to run it properly. At least it was for me.

To obtain the correct bore it is best to get it within 10-15 microns undersize and hone it with a honing bar made from PEEK and then use diamond lapping paste.

have you measured the run out of the motor shaft on its own? - clamp the motor body on a Vee block and rotate the shaft, dont use a lathe

It is in the car at the moment but I will do. Anyhow at full speed there appears to be no vibration and the peek centre support does not appear to touch. We will see at 100000rpm with the new TP motor!

It was bored but the sizing was better than 3 microns but the concentricity of the bore to the rest of the shaft is critical

As I have mentioned before, you need a very experienced machinist with all the correct tools to make this component accurately. We did not grind the shaft, it was only turned. Since it was made correctly I did not need a bearing only a PEEK support.

yes

I have now fitted the complete system to the car and after some engine and arduino code mapping it works very well even with the small motor. The TP4070SCM will be fitted shortly so this should be a big improvement. I may have to upgrade my ESC as it looks like I need to drive the motor pretty...

It is an interference fit extension shaft with an integral thread. There is no sleeve. So the concentricity, straightness, runout etc must be made to an extremely high accuracy for it to work properly. As I said, luckily I have a friend who is a better machinist than me who has the latest...

A word of warning though. The shaft MUST be extremely accurately manufactured or you risk vibration and ultimately a mechanical failure

Having a digital readout is certainly not enough. You need an extreme amount of machining skill and the correct metrology to do it. I have a small machine shop at home but for this job I enlisted a very experienced friend with the latest machines to do it. In fact he thread milled the LH M5...

It is an interference fit on the motor shaft. As I stated initially it has a 20micron interference, so had to be heated up to around 450-500 degrees to slip on. The shaft has to be pretty accurately made though.