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Don't want to create drama but you "poo poo" my charging set up with the BMS and I did it anyway and it work fine. Sometime I don't like the way other solve their shaft to impeller problem in the perspective of a machiniste, but at the end, you make your set up and if it work, it work! He's...

It's all make sense. I will put my money with yours. Lol

I will try to replace it if I can buy a spare magnet for the castle motor for sure

It should be good enough! But at the same time, adding a bearing will not affect the centering of the shaft and will add a little something good

I think we definitly need 1 bearing in the front. If you remove the top cap to screw on the back plate, you need to add a bearing! But the idea is verry good!

Sorry but what is galling? It have some scratch mark on the shaft for the glue. I just press it out yes!

I have successfully remove the motor shaft from the magnet! I difinitly want to try on my castle motor! But I talk with Joe from castle creations and I don't know if he can sell me a magnet assemblie.

They can be slightly hardened on the surface due to grinding. But what I find is turbo shaft and motor shaft are not hardened. Since procharge have no hot side on the shaft they have different stress. So the procharger may have a different treathment. Think of it, hardened turbo charge shaft...

I can't help you on the tunning side. But a wide band for the AFR is not that expensive and not that hard to install. I remember seeing one of you video that you remove you headers, don't remember exactly. But you just need to buy a wide band and weld a bong aside of your stock O2 sensor. You...

@cmoalem they have some motor in the SCM version that is 2 or 4 pole if I remember

I've made some research and realise that the motor shaft is not hardened steel! there is nothing special about the steel. I see cold-rolled (CRS), hot-rolled, sometimes stainless or drill rode like I use. but nothing super fancy. I realise a normal turbo have a soft steel shaft too!

It's safer to make an 8mm shaft with a 1/4" portion for the compressor wheel instead of bore the compressor wheel to 8mm. Like I explain, you need to have 1 set up if you want something true. The moment you modified or have a second operation, this is where things get tricky. Bore the compressor...

I can heat treat the shaft and I have a cylindrical grinder but it's not accurate at all.. but it worth to try it I think

@MkngStffAwesome do you remember where you saw the guy removing his motor shaft? I'm curioust and I think I want to try

I think I understand yes. But you may not understand me. If I put the magnet and motor shaft in the lathe, I will be offcenter no mather what. I can get clost but never at 0.000 To be more precise about the ESC no I can't set a max current. I think.. but what I can do is "max current %" so it's...

For something to be true, you need to machine it in one set up. Imagine machine one part, remove it of the chuck and putting back in and try to putting back to 0.000 is almost impossible. Like I said in the beginning of the video with my drawing. I can adjust the power in % but I don't know how...

Alex: yes I think the flat on the shaft could make it of centered and I wish my motor shaft had no flat on it. About pressing it out, I don't think I'm going to risk it for now! A real shrink fit should have up to 0.0016" interference. But knowing about the flat spot, I did 0.0004" interference...

Thanks guys! Mkngstff, "Why dont I just do what will work" well, I want it to work and why this wouldn't? Currently I have space issue and I don't want something that is "2ft long". But what do you think about 0.002" jumping? When you have model car, do you have this kind of miss match? I can't...

Yes, when I first start the project. But they are balence, heat treat, ground and how do you disassemble rhe magnet?

New videos's out! Have a look