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The question I have is, do you know where to start? It is in fact a long process. We can suggest you 1000 different things but you need to be more specific. Having the set up all in the back is a good idea for couple things but have its own cons to it. 48v may be enough but at the same time...

The oven can in fact be better but your hot rolled stock have a lot of stress.. you may need to rough your part, aneal it then make you final machining. So when you put it back in the oven, all the stress will already be out. Because when you saw your part bend in front of your eyes when...

Ooh that’s sad 😢

Can’t wait to see your results! Hopefully it will solve a lot of your problems

In the video I use the endmill as a boring bar but like I said, you should be good to use it as a drill with your reamer

That’s about right! You can drill smaller but before your reamer you should use an endmill for concentricity Go check at 7:15

If you are not tired of making new shaft, you can try my technic hahaha! make all the shaft in a single set-up and keep the hole for the last. for your second set-up, instead of just flip it in the chuck, make your own ''collet'' in the chuck to grab your part. since is not the most rigid...

what do you mean? you try to machined it and it turn itself on the shaft? not sure to understand you can adjust left to right but usually not up and down. Its one of the reason I don't recommend the tail stock for concentricity. ONLY if you use something more rigid like an endmill just put it...

This can help you to get parallel turning and not be tapered but it’s a waste of time to try to be perfect because every time you tight the tailstock, it will be different every time. Second, it can help you with your drilling but like I mentioned, the drill and reamer combo is not the best for...

I honnestly really dont know! I had those in my TP motor too back in the day! Definitely normal but I can’t give you the answer why

That is NOT the point I mentioned at all. The olny issue in the shrink fit is the flat on the shaft. My first motor was a TP with no flat and the shrink did work fine! Why I told him to try it with a flat less shaft is to see if his method is correct or not. If he still have off centric shaft...

Of course minimize the shaft length is your best bet! It’s now up to you how far you want to push the project!

I have a completly different opinion than matnrach. I do believe the flat spot a problem for the heat shrink. Try a test with a shaft with no flat like you said and I think it will be fine. I had the exact same issues when shrink fit on the shaft. I do think drill and ream is not the solution...

At the moment the only one is the TorqAmp

It will work for sure because its in fact RC battery and we use RC stuff to build the electric turbo. But there is more to it depending of the motor and controller you will use. I personally try different chemistry of battery. LTO, LiFepo4 and now Lipo. All have there advantages and...

The nice part is we almost did it all and know what should work first time 😂 don’t need to work on it for years before find something that works hahah

When I said « your worst enemy » I mean, heat will be your biggest enemy and cooling will be a challenge! I did pu a huge heat sink on mine where the car airflow intake shoot right on it! I think the screw will require more energy due to more friction, I guess, and oiling will be something to...

How much was it to make it? Sure it is hard to make it perfect without the part. A diffence of 0.01mm can be too loose or too tight. That why I have to restart the shaft 10times. To reach those tolerances we usually use sand paper. Even with that 2sec too long could scrap the part. Verry hard...

First, found your needs. What power you want to make on your specific engine and how much boost you will need. When you found this, try to find your compressor you want! Centrifugal or screw. When you found your compressor, check for how much RPM you will need for that! Now then, we can discuss...

There is something good or all the part are not?