If it's an ESC that requires a pwm signal , you need to convert a 12v signal from a switch mounted on the throttle to pwm. A 'servo tester' will do that but you will also need a realy to switch it on. Set the pwm signal for the speed you want and you are away.
Firstly ...12v lithium batteries are not a good solution. You need to design your batteries to be able to cope with outputs of up over 30Kw to even be in the ballpark for your goals. See Alex's LTO battery pack.
Forget about the idea of circuit racing ...not going to be viable for any more than...
Depends on whether you can get a motor/esc combination to run at that rpms with enough power to do the job. Allowing for the extra 10% or so power loss through the gearbox. The reason the P2 is what so many of us use is because it excels in the rpm ranges that suit readily available hobby...
IMO you need to get tuning software and tune it for boost. Trying to do it mickey mouse style might be ok for 1-2psi but it will severely limit the potential of your system once you start raising the boost.
Just came back from 'Mad Mike's Summerbash'.
Had three one hour sessions on track . These sessions are not full blown race pace. Generally it's more about just cruising around the track until you reach a certain part of the track where it becomes a full on roll race for all and sundry. This is...
Wow ...great video and explanation! For me I really have to stick with some water though, due to safety concerns, plus it really does help my rotary stay nice and clean (preventing compression loss) internally.
Maybe ...for the dyno though......lol
just thinking aloud here ... this is not from experience.
Would it be fair to say that while water does a better job of reducing knock on its own, methanol allows more liquid to be injected into the combustion chamber (without drowning the engine) which in turn allows more power to be made...
I'm using my max4 at 54.5V and it still works fine - for the last 6 months or so anyway. Any higher and the my charger trips out the ESC regularly and you can tell it doesn't like it as the audible 'ready' tones sound wonky. Using a 21S battery which means each cell is at 2.6V which is perfect...
Might be worth me trying it with dual motors seeing as It's working so far.
I figure the P2 is capable of 3-4 x more than what I've thrown at it so far and it was designed with just a belt drive in mind.
Thanks for the reply. Interestingly, I'm not seeing my belt get hot at all at around 18KW peak and 27000rpm. Could be a few factors in play .... The water cooled compressor housing is also cooling the shaft/drive pulley, plus, I've got quite a conservative 'punch' setting on the ESC.
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